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      If your building has old, torn, falling down or dirty insulation, BlueTex™ Pro is a great option to easily cover up the old insulation and create a new, bright white, durable interior finish.

      The BlueTex™ Pro is super-durable, tear proof, puncture resistant and easy to clean, making it BETTER than the original vinyl facing on the metal building insulation. In fact, it's 10 TIMES MORE DURABLE than the original insulation your building came with. Order your FREE sample kit here.

      To do this installation, there are basically two methods but the key is to understand that there are no hard and fast rules on how to do this. Each method is a little different, so choose what works best for your application. The biggest benefit with this insulation method, regardless of how you install it, is you can leave the existing old insulation up and install BlueTex™ insulation right over it!

      Remember, most buildings are similar, but you might have to modify these methods for your needs. We are here to help! Emailing us some pictures and your goals, will help us suggest a solution to fixing your old, torn, or dirty metal building wall insulation. 

      Install Options: TWO Different Methods/Options

      Install Method #1: Cleanest/Best Looking Install Method

      Install Method 2: Easiest/Quicker Install Method

      BlueTex™ is added between the old insulation and the metal purlins (behind the purlins).

      BlueTex™ is installed vertically with screws & washers, inside the building, on the purlins. 

      Method #1 Instructions - How to Install BlueTex™ Between Old Insulation and Existing Metal Purlins

      Keep scrolling down to find instructions for Install Method #2.

      *Note: This method involves removing the screws from the outside of the building.* 

      Use this install method to do a partial wall refinish (select sections) or the full wallIf doing the full wall, the top screws (near the roof edge) are NOT removed from the outside. They are usually “hidden” by either trim or gutters.  

      1. First, the screws are removed from the outside metal skin at about 5-8 ft at a time.
      2. Optional – use unfaced batts to fill in any big voids in the old insulation. 
      3. BlueTex™ PRO Insulation (50” wide works best) is pushed upward between the purlin and the old insulation from the bottom of the wall to the top of the section/wall.

      Covering The Bottom Partial Wall Only

      If you're doing the lowest section of the walls only, between the ground and the first purlin, follow these instructions:

      1. Start with the BlueTex™ roll on the ground and pull the piece up and between the old insulation and purlin, overlapping by at least 3”.

      2. Continue upward, past the actual purlin about 6” so you have a tab you can pull snug later.

      3. At this point, the BlueTex™ should be straight up/down with about 6” sticking past the top of the purlin. Secure bottom of BlueTex™ to floor L-bracket.  SEE Bottom/Floor Connection Methods section below.
      4. Next, you will want to pull upward on the BlueTex™ with moderate pressure to make it smooth and taut/tight. Alternatively, you can use a 2x4 and screw 3 screws/washers into the top edge of it. Then pull forward and downward to make it taut/tight. Once it’s tight, reuse the screws from the outside in existing holes through the metal skin, through the BlueTex™ Insulation and into the purlin.

      5. Fold the BlueTex™ down on the purlin and use the purlin as a cutting board to trim off excess insulation.

      6. Tape the seams with BlueTex™ 3” white vapor barrier seam tape. Tips for the best seaming: 

        • It’s best to have at least two people sealing the seams.
        • Pre-cut the length of tape needed, keeping the tape flat. 
        • Have one person hold the top and press down the seam while the other person pulls the tape tight and holds about 12"-18" inches away. 
        • Continue until the seam is covered and tight.

      Covering up the ENTIRE WALL

      If you're doing the full wall, you will cover from the ground to roofline in one piece.

      1. First you will need to attach BlueTex™  to the BOTTOM of the top eave strut since the outside metal panel screws on the top purlin are usually hidden behind either the eave trim or gutters. NOT YET THOUGH!
      2. Remove screw panels from outside for the section you are working on. Pull the BlueTex™ PRO from the ground upward between the old insulation and the purlin(s) upward until you get to the top eave strut.
      3. Pull enough BlueTex™ past the top eave strut/purlin so you can fold toward you and create a “tab” about 4” on the bottom of the eave strut (purlin). 

      4. Pull BlueTex™  downward, make sure it is straight and overlap pieces by 3".  Attach the bottom of the BlueTex™ to the ground/bottom of the wall using one of the three options below to connect it to the floor/L-bracket. Our recommendation is to do Option 3: Screw BlueTex™ insulation into ribbing cavities. With this method you do NOT undo the exterior metal screws on the bottom L-bracket, you only undo the screws in the middle purlins.

      5. Once the BlueTex™ is secured to the bottom L-bracket, push upward on the "Tab" at the top EAVE STRUT.  This will make the BlueTex™ smooth and tight. BE SURE IT IS STRAIGHT UP/DOWN.

      6. Then use either screws/washers or a wood strip (best method-painting optional) to secure the BlueTex™ to the bottom of the top eave strut In the CENTER ONLY.  We recommend #8 1 1/4" self-drilling hex head screws (with a 1/4" hex head).  We recommend prepping several pieces of wood at a time by pre-drilling 1/8" holes through the wood to prevent splitting. Then, pre-load your screws into the pre-drilled holes so you're ready to go.

      7. Pull edges upward to make sure BlueTex™ is smooth and tight.  Use at least two more screws/washer or screws into wood strip to secure the top into the bottom of the eave truss.

      8. Replace screws from outside to cinch/lock BlueTex™ between metal panel and purlins.
      9. Finally, come back and tape all your seams with our 3" wide seam tape


      Method #2 Instructions - How to Install BlueTex™ - Multiple Smaller Pieces Inside - Top/Bottom Of Purlins

      For installation between the purlins without removing the exterior wall screws on the outside of the building:

      Note: This process achieves the same goal as installing between the old insulation and the purlins, except the install process is completely done on the inside of the building.

      • You will be using multiple pieces of BlueTex™ to fit inside the purlins, instead of a single piece for the entire height of the wall.
      • Most building have what are called "Z" purlins where the front flange of the Z purlin points up and the back flange points down.
      • We recommend you use several screws/washers and attach the top of the BlueTex™ section to the back flange of the Z purlin, BE CAREFUL! The screws need to go into the "pockets" from the ribs in the metal panel so it won't poke through to the outside.
      • The BlueTex™ will hang down like a curtain, and you can attach it to the top of the Z purlin below. Make a 4" tab that you can push downward to create tension on the BlueTex™.
      • Then use several screws/washers or wood strip and while keeping snug, screw the BlueTex™ into the top of the Z purlin. The tab will usually be hidden behind the front flange of the Z purlin.
      • Or use screws/washers to attach to top/bottom of purlins.
      • Then seal the edges with our 3" white seam tape, to keep things airtight for moisture control.

      Bottom/Floor Connection Methods

      You can approach this method by attaching BlueTex™ one of the following three options. 

      • Option #1 - Tuck BlueTex™ insulation between the old insulation and L bracket.
        1. You might have to cut the facing if your original insulation was taped to the L-bracket.

        2. Cut BlueTex™ straight for bottom edge.

        3. Use drywall taping knife or 6” putty knife to push BlueTex™ in between the old insulation and your L-bracket.

        4. Re-use screws from outside to purlins to secure; the screws should line up.

        5. OPTIONAL: Use a thin piece of metal or something like a coat hanger to line up the screw holes if needed. Push from outside and get help putting through original holes. Once one is in, the rest should line up easily.


      • Option #2 - Push BlueTex™ insulation ON TO existing screws through the floor L-bracket. 
        1. If you have screws coming through the L-brackets you should be able to use our insulation washers and push on to secure.

        2.  A ½" deep socket works great and use either a hammer to tap on or if you have a hammer drill with hammer only or chisel mode works great to push it on.


      • Option #3 - Screw BlueTex™ insulation into metal panel rib cavities.

        1. This is similar to the push on screw method except you use our ¾" self-drilling screws and insulation washers to secure the BlueTex™ to the bottom L-bracket.

        2. The KEY here is you can only put the screws where the ribs are in your panel. Otherwise, the screws will penetrate the exterior metal.

        3. Depending on your metal panel type the ribs are usually 9-12 inches apart. The good thing is they are very consistent, so double check the center to center rib distance on the outside of building.

        4. Cut into the old insulation to find a rib, or use a screwdriver to poke through the insulation and find the center of a rib.  Then, you can precisely make marks on the L-bracket (or ground) for where the screws will go.

      If you'd like to see how to cover up old insulation on the ceiling/roofline of a red iron building, check out our install pages here:
      Using the EasyClip™ System to Repair Old Insulation on the Ceiling of a Red Iron Style Building

      The Roof Cover System to Repair Old, Torn Ceiling Insulation Leaving the Purlins Exposed

      You can shop all the items needed for installation right here on our website: Browse All BlueTex™ Products