If you have a metal-framed building with 60" on center framing, keep reading this page for how to install BlueTex™ vertically on your building.
If your framing is less than 60" on center, this install guide shows you how to install BlueTex™ horizontally: Alternate Install Method for Metal-Framed Metal Buildings.
Before you start, remember the basic goal during installation is to create an “envelope” inside the frame, made from BlueTex™. This envelope acts as a NEW interior air barrier, vapor barrier and thermal barrier in one. Typical installs are done with the foil side of the BlueTex™ facing the exterior of the building (with the required airspace between the foil side and the exterior metal) and the glossy white surface facing inside the building.
This will basically put the building “in the shade” from the heat, almost like it was instantly under a giant tree.
The NEW INTERIOR SURFACE made with the BlueTex™ should minimize / eliminate condensation from forming inside the building. As long as this new surface has a temperature that stays above the dew point, condensation will not physically be able to form. Learn more about what causes condensation in a metal building and how to prevent condensation in your metal building.
Because not all buildings are identical, you may have to get creative with your installation. If you have a specific question about how to install BlueTex™ in your building, please email us pictures and/or drawings and we will be glad to help you. We do this everyday and have seen just about everything when it comes to installations and applications. Let our experts give you some advice: contact us by email or give us a call at 800-595-8772.
PREP: HOW TO ATTACH TO THE METAL
Before you begin the install, you need to determine how you're going to attach the product to your metal framing. Most applications use the sheet metal screws and locking washers, but some red-iron style buildings may need to use a method of pins and washers since they can't pierce the metal skin. Decide which method is best for your application and use that.
1) Choose the Best Way To Attach the Insulation
Most typical tubular steel buildings look similar to the picture below with corner bracing. You need to decide if you want to run ON (blue line) or BEHIND (red line) the bracing with your BlueTex™ Insulation. We recommend the path of the red line, though either approach will work.
We recommend using BlueTex self-drilling screws and locking washers to install BlueTex™ insulation to your building. These washers have a large surface area specially designed to hold the BlueTex™ Insulation to the metal framing. You can find supplies mentioned below on our Resources Page.
Fasteners: Using self-drilling screws
For this method you'll attach the BlueTex™ by using a screw gun/drill (cordless works great) to attach round insulation washers with self-drilling 3/4” screws into the framing. We supply screws + washers HERE; no pre-drilling is required when using these screws. We only use/recommend hex-shaped heads (as opposed to Phillips heads). It's super easy if you get a magnetic nut-driver attachment for your drill to help hold and drive the screws into the metal.
The best way to approach this is to attach the edge with the adhesive on the back foil side and attach directly to the metal frame.
Then move to the other side and use screws and washers to attach the opposite edge to the metal. Now that one piece is up, you will go to the next piece and attach the adhesive side and then pull across to the piece (adhesive side) already attached. Pull snug and use screws/washers to go through both layers of BlueTex™ into the framing.
Double sided tape can also be used to hold in place while attaching, but the helper/pull tight method is best.
Now that you know which method you're using to attach the product to the metal, let's get started with prepping the building for the installation.
2) Pre-assemble and paint your fasteners
This step is optional, but we do recommend this if you're looking for a more professional look. Pre-assemble the screws and locking washers using a drill and work gloves.
Then use cardboard or foam boards and arrange the screws in rows. Paint them white to match the BlueTex™ insulation and let them dry completely.
3) Prepare for the transitions in the corners, the gables and between the walls & roofline
You need to have something in the corners of the building to screw the insulation in to (a hard corner). We recommend a 2" x 2" piece of wood, or ripping some 2x4's (or some scrap wood) and you need enough pieces to go on either side of each corner support, from the ground up to the tops of the walls.
To fasten the wood to the metal framing, we recommend using screws that are at least 2.5" long; Teks™ screws or standard self-drilling metal screws work well, but we recommend the hex-head self-drilling screws.
Pre-drill holes into the wood, then add the screws through the wood and into the metal frame.
To make the transitions from the walls to the roofline easier, we recommend you add a 1x2 or 1x4 horizontally across the top of the wall, a couple of inches from the top edge. Think of it like crown moulding, and it will create a hard surface to fasten the BlueTex™ into as it begins going up onto the roofline. This will help create a “sharp” corner from the wall to the roof. Otherwise, it can look crumbled. This is also a great place to put a seam if you want to do the roof and the walls with different pieces.
Sides of the Overhead Door: Use a 2x2 and use an industrial adhesive to glue the wood directly onto the metal skin and let it dry overnight. This will make attaching the BlueTex™ around the door simple, and it will look much nicer than any other method.
For now leave the corner bracing alone and don't remove it, but if you have any light fixtures or conduit, you may want to remove them at this time.
Now that you've done all the prep work, you're ready to get started!
Begin Your Installation
With 60" OC framing, you will install the BlueTex™ VERTICALLY, up each wall cavity and across the roof. We recommend doing the side walls first, then the roof, then finish with the end walls and gable ends.
The other option is to do an up and over method. Depending on the size of your building, you can go all the way up one wall, go onto the roofline up to the peak, then either come back down the other slope of the roof and down the opposite wall, terminating at the floor, or start at the floor of the opposite wall and terminate at the peak of the roof.
STEP 1-A The Walls
START AT THE BOTTOM: Use the floor of the building and the bottom part of the framing as your guide to start the first run. Install BlueTex™ so that the foil side is facing out of the building (away from you).
STEP 1-B The Corners
When you get to the corners you should have at least a few inches (or more) at the end. At the corner joint, use a flat blade (like a putty knife or drywall blade) and use the flat edge and tip of the blade to push the insulation deep into the corners, allowing just enough room to fasten the screws and washers into the wood piece you installed during your prep. Fasten the screws at least every 2' from the bottom to the top.
Remember, you can easily cover the screws with our matching tape to make them disappear or you can pre-paint the screws and washers white to match the BlueTex™.
STEP 1-C Prepping the Corner Bracing
If you have corner bracing and are opting to go behind it (red line in the first photo on this page), follow these steps:
1) Unscrew the two screws on the bottom of the brace. DO NOT unscrew the top screws of the brace! Pull the bracing away from the wall about 2" - 4" and do this all the way down the wall. Run your BlueTex™ behind the corner brace up the wall and as far up as you can go. Fasten the BlueTex™ all the way up the wall, just like before, careful not to add any screws where the truss will re-mount.
When you're done, pull the brace back down toward the BlueTex™ and set it so it rests just on top of it. Use the brace as a guide and take your utility knife and cut two slits in the BlueTex™, one on either side of the brace. Then you can push the bracing into those slots, and then you can use the same screws you took out to re-align the brace and attach it back to the frame.
Note: If you're using the 6mm product, the screw holes may not align anymore, so you may have to make new holes to attach screws. Once you drill new holes, you should be able to reuse the same self-drilling screws you took out.
THE ROOFLINE: Ideally, you want to keep a continuous new interior surface and connect the walls to the bottom of the roofline. Usually, you can just keep going without any difficulties, but if this is a challenge, please send us some pictures and we can offer some technical advice to help you.
Connecting the gable ends to the roofline may also require some insulation tape to get a good airtight seal. Continue up the roofline until both sides meet in the middle or do the up and over method as shown in the photo above. Take the BlueTex™ all the way up one wall, go onto the roofline up to the peak, then come back down the other slope of the roof and down the opposite wall, terminating at the floor.
Here you have to decide: are you going to vent the building, or not vent it?
VENTED VS. NON-VENTED
NON-VENTED BUILDINGS: If you are not venting the building, then overlap the sides at the center ridge about 6" - 10" inches and secure with washers or screws/washers. Taping the top seam is optional.
VENTED BUILDINGS: If the building is ventilated, then leave a 3-6” slit/gap at the top of the roof, regardless of whether you have ridge vent or not! If you do not have ridge vents, but you do have other types of vents (usually gable vents or a gable fan), this gap will allow for air to move out of the top of the building via the path of least resistance.
FINISH UP: Finish closing/taping all the seams on the walls and roofline. Use extra tape to “clean up” any exposed seams or loose pieces from cutting.
We realize that retrofitting an existing building can be a challenging project. However, we can confidently say that both the improved comfort and eliminating sweating/condensation is absolutely worth it!
We have thousands of customers who have installed a radiant barrier in their building and they are consistently amazed at what a difference it makes.
We also offer REAL customer support/technical advice with real people. We are NOT here just to SELL you something. We are here to SERVE you!! If you need help planning or installing your project, please contact our experts. It’s best to send a short summary of your project and any questions you have. Then, our experts will call or email you back for any extra details we need to help you choose the best insulation solution for your building.
*This step is optional INTERIOR FINISH: You can leave the interior layer of BlueTex™ exposed and the install will be done. If you want a completely finished look however, you can cover the white surface of the BlueTex™ with just about anything for an interior finish! Depending on your application and what you use the building for, the most common interior finishes are OSB, plywood, tongue and groove or drywall to secure shelving, signage, racks, etc.
If you have any questions about this install process, feel free to contact us at 800-595-8772!