Red Iron Building Insulation - How To Retrofit Roofs in Existing Red I

Do you have a metal building with OLD, STAINED, or FALLING DOWN fiberglass insulation? Or, are you getting CONDENSATION on your purlins inside the building? THIS RETROFIT system is for you!

BlueTex™ insulation solves both of these challenges with our EasyClip™ insulation hanging system. Designed and manufactured exclusively by BlueTexInsulation.com

Typically, red-iron or PEMB (Pre-engineered Metal Buildings) have purlins either on 60” or 48” on centers. BlueTex™ insulation is specifically designed for these two sizes to provide a 2” overlap during installation. This system will create a NEW internal air, vapor and radiant barrier, and it will hide the old, dirty, dripping/wet, and falling down fiberglass insulation.

If you have a red iron building with 60" or 48” on center framing, keep reading this page for how to install BlueTex™ inside your building under the roofline. For an application like this, our 50” and 62” wide BlueTex™ products are PERFECT to have a 2” overlap built in that is easy to seam. Our 62” wide products are available in the BlueTex™ PRO 2MM and the BlueTex™ SUPREME 6MM. Our 50” wide products are available in the BlueTex™ SUPREME 6MM and BlueTex™ PRO 2mm.

If you CALL to order BlueTex™ to insulate your roof in a red iron style application, we will include a FREE custom length center-piece (31” wide piece) for the narrow center ridge cavity. Call us for more details or to place your order.

The walls of a red iron steel building can be insulated via the Shish-kebab method for a retrofit application: How To Retrofit Walls in Existing Red Iron Buildings

The BlueTex™ EasyClip™ system is a GAME CHANGER for red-iron type buildings with Z-purlins or C-Purlins because this new method will create a “dead” airspace that is the thickness of the purlins, thereby adding R-value and reducing thermal bypass so less heat is gained/lost through the roof. This will also PREVENT the interior warm-moist air from GETTING to the COLD METAL causing CONDENSATION.

The layer of BlueTex™ on your ceiling acts as a NEW interior air barrier, vapor barrier and thermal/radiant barrier all in one. BlueTex™ should be installed with the foil side facing UP to the exterior roofing of the building while the ultra-durable, glossy white side will face down, toward the interior of the building.

Installing your BlueTex™ like this will REFLECT 97% of radiant heat. This will create almost the same effect as a giant tree being placed over the building.

Eliminate Moisture Build Up / Condensation

By creating a NEW INTERIOR SURFACE from BlueTex™, you will be able eliminate condensation from forming on the purlins. The key to achieving this is to make sure your new inside surface has a temperature that stays above the dew point, so condensation will not be able to form. Learn more about what causes condensation in a metal building and how to prevent condensation in your metal building.

If you have a specific question about how to install BlueTex™ in your building, please email us pictures and/or drawings and we will be glad to use our expertise to guide you along: contact us by email or give us a call at 800-595-8772.

Pre-Installation

Prep Your Z-Purlins/C-Purlins for Insulation

Most red iron buildings look similar to the picture below. You can either prep all your clips ahead of time, or do sections as you go along. To start, you will attach the white EasyClip™ purlin clips on your purlins about every 24-48” using the included ¾”” self-drilling screw through the screw notch to securely attach the clip to the purlin.

NOTE: Once installed, you can use additional BlueTex™ screws/washers between the EasyClips™ if desired.

Prep Your Walls for Transitions

Depending on your building, you may need to attach something in the ENDS of each purlin bay to terminate into the end walls. Usually, wood strips are used to create a hard surface to fasten the BlueTex™ into as it transitions from the roofline to the walls. This will help create a “sharp” corner from the wall to the roof. Otherwise, it can look crumbled and be hard to seal up.

Now that you've done all the prep work, you're ready to get started!

Start the Install Process

1) Start on the Purlins

Use the “bend” in the Z-Purlin (See image) to line up one edge of the BlueTex Insulation (start with the edge WITHOUT the double-sided tape). The adhesive edge of the BlueTex™ should not be put onto the metal red iron because with heat fluctuations, it can release and cause your insulation seam to sag. To keep things looking as nice as possible, start with the non-adhesive edge for your first piece on the purlin and use the adhesive edge for your overlap (second piece) throughout the entire install.

Either use a screw and washer or just push an EasyClip™ on to secure your starting point.
Keep straight on the purlin and pull tight until you reach the next EasyClip™ and push onto pin.
Attach 5-10 ft on one purlin and then pull across to next purlin keeping straight and fairly tight.
Push onto EazyClip™ pin. At this point you can start removing the double-sided tape as you attach the second/overlap piece and push it onto clips.
Now you will have both layers of BlueTex™ installed. Firmly push the EasyClip™ locking washers on to the pins and then use a pair of nibblers or pliers to cut off the extra pin.
One option is to use a clamp a few feet forward to temporarily hold the BlueTex™ in place as you work to keep it out of your way.
Continue working the purlins side to side until the section is complete.
Use BlueTex 3” wide tape to seal the seams.

2) Going Over the Rafters/Beams

When you come to a rafter simply cut a slit the width of the purlin to go up and over the rafter and then continue on the bottom of the purlin once past the rafter. Be sure to use tape to seal up gaps/cracks around cut.

4) Finishing Up the Roofline

Once you get all your sections and seams done LOOK for places that air can still get by.

Use tape, or screws and washers to seal these gaps/cracks. Remember, you want the NEW internal surface as airtight as possible!

The walls of a red iron steel building can be insulated via the Shish-Kabob method for a retrofit application: How To Retrofit Walls in Existing Red Iron Buildings

View our photo gallery of red iron pre-engineered steel building installations.

When Should You Use BlueTex™ 2mm versus the 6mm product?

BlueTex™ Pro 2mm is a great choice when you have old, falling, and dirty insulation that you need to encapsulate and cover up inside a red iron steel building.

BlueTex™ Supreme 6mm is best for a bare metal red iron steel building that sits in a cold climate.

For more info, see our page: Help Me Choose The Right Product

If you have any questions about this install process, feel free to contact us at 800-595-8772!