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      Application: This method is designed for when you have a red iron style building that requires you to install BlueTex™ on the walls but you do not want to pierce the exterior metal skin of the building and you can't install directly on the face of the purlins.

      If your building walls are accessible, then you can install BlueTex™ vertically (up/down) the face of the purlins inside the building. However if you have stuff mounted on the purlins or you can't access them, then use this installation technique to attach BlueTex™ insulation in-between the exterior purlins on the walls inside your building. 

      If you're looking for instructions on how to install BlueTex™ insulation on a Quonset style building, a shipping container, or any other building without a frame, you can find that info here


      Supplies Needed

      1. Perforated insulation pins
      2. Boss Multi-Seal Adhesive or Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive (or any other strong, all-weather adhesive)
      3. ½" or thicker rigid foam board (this will be cut into small 2" x 2" squares)
      4. Locking insulation washers for 12 gauge pins
      5. *optional* white paint to pre-paint the washers to blend into the BlueTex™

      Tip: We recommend using a large piece of cardboard/styrofoam to hold several pins ready to be prepped with glue. 



      Step 1: Prep your Foam Spacer Blocks

      The spacers blocks are a critical piece of this installation because remember, the foil side of BlueTex™ insulation needs an air gap of about 1/2" in order to block radiant heat from coming inside the building.

      Prep your foam board spacers by cutting them into 2" wide strips and then cut those 2" wide strips down into 2" x 2" squares that will easily slide onto the pins to create the perfect spacers between the exterior metal skin and the foil surface of your BlueTex™ insulation. Once you've trimmed all your spacer blocks, set them aside installation day.


      Step 2: Prep the Walls and Glue the Pins

      Use the adhesive to add a nickel-sized glob onto the base of the perforated pins and then place the base of the pin onto the metal skin on the walls. You want to make sure and push the pin flat to the metal; adhesive will ooze through the holes of the base and this is supposed to happen. The adhesive usually cures in about 24 hours and once it's dry and the pins are secure, you can hang your BlueTex™ insulation.

      We recommend spacing your pins about 24" (2') apart for the smoothest and strongest installation. We also recommend putting some extra pins along the top of the wall since the BlueTex™ is essentially “hanging” from the pins and this will allow for an easier installation overall.


      Step 3: Add the Spacers to the Pins

      Once your adhesive is cured and your pins are all secure on the walls, you're ready to add your spacer blocks to the pins.

      Slide one 2" x 2" block onto your pins and push through so it's flush against the base of the pin. Continue until all pins have a spacer block on them. 


      Step 4: Add BlueTex™ onto the Pins

      Your spacers are in place and creating the air gap you need between the exterior wall and the BlueTex™. Push your BlueTex™ onto the pins and press it all the way until you meet the spacer block.

      Then slide your locking washer onto the end of the pin and push it tightly up against the BlueTex™ for a snug, air-tight fit. Once the washer is locked on, snip off the tip of the pin head for safety.


      Step 5: Seal Your Seams

      Finish up your install by seaming the edge with our 3" wide white vapor barrier seam tape. 

      Now your walls inside your red iron steel building are insulated against radiant heat gain and able to help you stop condensation from forming inside. 

      Click to see how to do a BlueTex™ ceiling insulation install in a red iron steel building.

      Click to see a gallery of installation photos from red iron pre-engineered steel building installations.