Repair Old, Torn Ceiling Insulation In Red Iron Metal Buildings & Keep

If your metal building insulation is old, torn, stained or falling down on the roofline, we have a solution. We developed the EasyClip™ System and The Roof Cover System to contain the old insulation and create a new interior finish. This page will cover how to install The Roof Cover System, leaving the purlins visible from down below.

If you're curious to compare the EasyClip™ System and the Roof Cover System, we list the pros and cons of each here.

Order a Sample Box Below to Test the System Out

The Roof Cover system is is installed INSIDE the purlins (against old insulation) to make a new super durable, bright and clean vapor barrier.

Supplies Needed for the Roof Cover System on a Red Iron Ceiling

This method involves installing the BlueTex™ insulation (we recommend the Pro 2mm product) perpendicular to the purlins.

BlueTex 2mm Pro 50” wide roll - in our experience, the 50" wide roll reduces arm/shoulder fatigue during the install process because it’s much easier to handle/hold (compared to the 62” wide) while working
3" wide white vapor barrier seam tape
48" aluminum termination bars - used to hold the BlueTex insulation snug against the purlins
Screws/washers - to provide additional support on corners and joints

In these applications, considering overlap, we recommend that you calculate your coverage to yield about 650 sq ft of actual true coverage out of every 700 sq ft BlueTex™ roll (or 250 sq ft out of every 300 sq ft roll). This is because you have to factor in that you have a 2" overlap on each panel and the 2-3" tabs/extra you use to screw into the purlins on the top and bottom of each section.

Step 1: Prep	Step 6: Using the Term Bars
Step 2: Measure Purlin Distance	Step 7: Lining Things Up
Step 3: Do a Test Area	Step 8: Securing the Ends
Step 4: The First Piece	Step 9: Sealing the Seams
Step 5: Starting on the Purlin

Step 1: Prep your ceiling

If you have old insulation that is moldy or saturated, we do recommend you remove it and start fresh. It’s never a good idea to encapsulate wet insulation against the roof. Assuming that is addressed, now is the time to decide if you plan to paint your purlins.

If painting, go ahead and spray all the purlins and don’t worry about overspray, the BlueTex will cover it all up.

Optional: This isn't a common occurrence, but if your building has LONG roofing screws going through the purlin flange (that go past where your BlueTex™ would be installed), you need to trim them off so they don't poke holes in the BlueTex™. Simply use a pair of end cutting pliers and nip the screws off about a half inch below the purlin flange.

Step 2: Measure the distance between the purlins

Measure the distance between the purlins, add some extra for the bulge in the existing insulation, and add 3-4 more inches for the attachment tabs. This will usually come out to about 66”-68” on purlins that are 60” apart. This extra 2-inch flap will extend past the bottom of the turn bars and give you something to pull and make it tight on the sides. As you get more experienced, you can make this tab a little shorter to reduce the waist.

Step 3: Do a test area

Start in one cavity area and pre-cut a couple of pieces to get started, double-check those measurements before you cut! A cutting station is a great plan to get the product cut straight and square and ready for installation.

Now is your chance to practice making every connection AIR TIGHT – this is where the termination bars come in. They will press the foam into the purlins, creating an air tight seal that keeps interior air from going behind your BlueTex layer. Seam tape and screws and washers can assist you in areas not covered by the term bar (like the seams in the insulation), but please note we do not recommend applying tape to the metal purlins for long term hold. Metal/mechanical fasteners are the better option.

Step 4: Hold your piece of BlueTex up in the corner of the purlin and the old insulation.

Start in one cavity area and pre-cut a couple of pieces to get started, double-check those measurements before you cut!

Step 5: Start on the side without the purlin flange.

Try to get it very straight with about a 2” tab sticking out below the term bar.

Step 6: Push the term bar FIRMLY into the corner of the purlin and the old insulation.

Get the term bar snug up in the corner, so you have no gaps.

Step 7: Have your partner line up their side.

The goal here is to keep the BlueTex straight and keeping the 2” overlap covering the previous piece of BlueTex.

Step 7: Add 1 center screw.

Press firmly to keep the term bar snug and put your first screw through the center of the term bar into the purlin to hold everything in place.

Step 8: Pull on the tab edges to create a little tension & secure the ends.

You want your BlueTex pulled tight and taught and then add your remaining 2 screws, one of either side of the term bar ends.

Step 9: Sealing the seams (1-2 people).

Reach into the seam and peel off the paper backing on the double-sided adhesive edge.
Press the seam together.
Take your white seam tape and start on one side, letting it extend about ½” past the edge of the term bar.
Firmly press the seams together as you move your way across the area.
Cut the tape off about ½” below the term bar.
Use a putty knife (or similar tool) to push the tape between the term bar and the BlueTex.

YOU NEED TO PRESS REALLY FIRM ON THE SEAM TAPE! It is pressure activated and will take a couple month to fully cure and bond to the BlueTex. Press harder than you think you need to - don’t skip this step!!

Note on Structural Connections:

As you continue across the roof, you’ll run into places where the structural beams connect above the purlins.

These areas require some creativity – we recommend cutting and folding around the corners. You can cut your term bars into shorter pieces or use the screws & locking washers to mechanically attach the BlueTex to the metal. We provide additional screws/washers in your term bar order, so you should have them on hand.

Note on the Purlin and Term Bar spacing during installation:

Look at the photo below. You will notice the screws from one side of the purlin cavity about ½” down from the purlin flange, sticking through the purlin into the adjacent cavity. Because of this, you want to position your term bar for the adjacent cavity at least below these existing screws, or even to the bottom of the term bar on the other side.

If you get too close and catch the edge of the term bar when adding the BlueTex to the other cavity, you will push the term bar away from the purlin, so watch out for this! The air gap created by this stacking is ok, and actually beneficial. Watch the video guide above @8:50 for specific guidance on this.

Alternative Fastening Option for this System: Wood Strip Spacers

As an alternative to using our aluminum term bars, you could use wood spacers for this system, though they won’t look as nice or be as easy to work with. You could paint these wood strips white, to help them blend in better, but it’s not required or necessary for performance.

If using wood, we recommend you pre-drill 3 x 1/8th holes in each piece in the center of the wood, and about 3 inches from each end. Use 1 ¼” #8 hex head screws to attach the wood to the metal. For easiest installation, pre-mount by pushing the screws halfway into the wood. This will enable you to press the wood strips against the BlueTex™ and easily attach the wood without handling the screws. Once you get a system established, you can quickly and easily make many wood strips and have them ready before you start.

Then just follow the steps above to do the same steps to install your BlueTex™ over the old insulation in the roofline.

Resources for More Info About Using BlueTex™ to Cover Over Old Insulation:

Now that you know how to do the Roof Cover System on your roofline, you might want to check out these other pages:

How to Install BlueTex™ on Walls to Cover Up Old, Ripped Insulation

Case Study: Covering Old Insulation in a Weld Shop

Shop All BlueTex™ Insulation Products