Don't Pay For Shipping! We ship your order of $100+ for FREE within the contiguous USA!
0 Cart
Added to Cart
    You have items in your cart
    You have 1 item in your cart
      Total
      Check Out Continue Shopping

      Installations

      Blog Menu

      The BlueTex™ EasyClip™ System and The Roof Cover System for Repairing Old Insulation

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      Cover up old, torn, dirty roof insulation easily with BlueTex Insulation

      If you have a building with old insulation up in the roofline and you're looking for a way to cover it up or repair it without starting all the way over, we have two great options for achieving this. 

      Two Systems to Cover Old Insulation on the Roofline

      The BlueTex™ EasyClip™ system uses custom designed, injection molded, polypropylene clips with protruding pins that fit snugly onto the bottom of a C-purlin or a Z-purlin along the roofline. The BlueTex™ insulation is then "stabbed" onto the bottom of the pin and a washer is added to secure the BlueTex™ permanently onto the pin/clip.

      BlueTex EasyClip System - Before & After

      The BlueTex™ Roof Cover System that uses metal screws and locking washers to secure the BlueTex™ directly onto the metal purlins. 

      BlueTex Roof Cover System - Before & After

      Below we will cover the Pros and Cons of each system so you can decide which approach is best for your application.

      The Pros

      The EasyClip™ System Pros:

      • Hides rusty, dirty metal purlins by creating a new interior finish across the roof.
      • A dead air space between BlueTex™ and the roof adds additional r-value.
      • Save energy and improve comfort!
      • Foil side is a radiant barrier, reflect 97% of radiant heat and create an instant shade effect.
      • Get better condensation control on the bottom of the purlins - no more dripping!
      • This install method can easily be modified for wood framing.
      • Gain the ability to MAXIMIZE additional insulation (r-value) between the BlueTex™ layer and the old insulation.
      • This is the best way to convert a bare metal roof from a “non-conditioned” to “conditioned” building.

      The Roof Cover System Pros:

      • Easy to handle smaller pieces of insulation
      • Great for smaller damaged areas
      • Perfect for “patch” jobs
      • Blends in with the old insulation
      • Installed above lights, conduit, sprinkler systems, etc.
      • Can easily be applied to a wood roof

      The Cons

      The EasyClip™ System Cons:

      • Works best for doing full roof area (not as good for smaller areas).
      • You may need to work around lights, conduit, sprinkler systems, skylights, etc., since you're attaching the product to the bottom of the purlins.
      • This method involves handling longer pieces at a time.

      The Roof Cover System Cons:

      • The purlins may still get cold, which can lead to condensation on the bottom of the purlins
      • You'll just have the existing r-value based on what's already on the roofline and there's not a good way to add more r-value with this method.

      Covering Old Insulation on the Roofline

      Both methods are good options to cover up unsightly insulation along the roofline but one may be a better fit that the other.

      Covering Old Insulation on the Roofline - before and after

      We have the supplies you need to do either method right here on our website and we provide live technical support to answer any follow up questions you have about either of these methods. For more info, see:

      How to Install the EasyClip™ System

      How to Install the Roof Cover System

      Covering Old Insulation on Walls

      Barn and Shed Installation - Blocking Heat Only

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      Barn and Shed Installation - Blocking Heat Only

      Goal Temps in Non-Conditioned Buildings

      The main problem with heat gain in a metal building is that it will absorb so much radiant heat that the inside temperatures will far exceed the outside temperatures. The simple solution to this is a radiant barrier; it will essentially act like shade. Reflecting 97% of that radiant heat out of the structure is the key to a comfortable space, even without conditioning it.

      We have many customers who have used radiant barrier on garages, barns, carports, airplane hangars, work sheds, warehouses etc. with great results in comfort. It's important to remind yourself that structures under this category are just that: structures. This means they will not feel or operate like conditioned or living structures; they will be hotter/cooler than a home/office space and they'll also likely be wetter, and that's ok. That being said, the goal for these types of buildings is to take the edge off the continual heat gain in the hot months and to help temper the chill in the colder months.

       

      No Need for Traditional Insulation

      On a non-conditioned building, there really is nothing better than a radiant barrier to control the heat gain. Structures like sheds, carports and barns can all benefit greatly by adding a layer of radiant barrier near the roof line and any sun-catching walls to keep the heat out. On a non-conditioned building, traditional r-value insulation is not necessary since you're goal is NOT to keep conditioned air (cold or hot) inside of it, but rather just trying to keep it comfortable when in use. Therefore, the most realistic expectations you can have for a building that you are not heating or cooling, is to get it at (or close to), outside air temperature (also known as ambient air temperature). Getting the air temperature lowered is largely relative to the amount of ventilation you have going through the structure. However, keeping the inside of a metal structure at or near ambient temperature is practically impossible if you do not have a radiant barrier. The radiant barrier will work to reduce the surface temperatures, and the ventilation to help bring the air temperatures down.

       

      How to Install

      Like most installs of this nature, getting the BlueTex™ closest to the exterior of the building will bring about the best overall results, specifically for hot climates.

      If you're doing new construction, you can wrap the outside of the frame with BlueTex™ too, just make sure the FOIL SIDE of the product has at least ¼" to ½" of an air space between it and the exterior/interior sheathing. You can see more info on how to install here: Install BlueTex™ in Your Metal Building

       

      What About Moisture?

      Interior moisture (condensation) is created when relatively warm-moist air hits a cold surface (usually the metal of the building). One of the biggest issues we hear of with metal buildings are customers trying to find a solution to "sweating buildings" and we get it! We've written an extensive guide to teach you (1) what causes moisture in your metal building and (2) how to stop it.

      Did you know? The problem itself may be what you're using the building for! Livestock, agriculture products, grain etc. are all commonly stored inside barns and sheds. These items will produce high levels of moisture & sometimes there's not much you can do about that. The best way to protect yourself against moisture forming inside a structure like that is to have plenty of ventilation to keep moisture from sticking, and pair it with a radiant barrier to stop the huge swings in temperature inside the building.