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      Installations — metal building insulation

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      How to Use BlueTex™ in an Open Carport for Heat Control

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      Cool Down Your Carport

      If your goal is to keep your open carport cooler by blocking heat—without worrying about sealing off the building for moisture control—BlueTex™ radiant barrier metal building insulation is an excellent choice.

       

      Why BlueTex™ Metal Building Insulation Works So Well for Heat Control

      • Reflects Radiant Heat: The pure aluminum layer in BlueTex™ reflects up to 97% of radiant heat (a form of energy transfer that happens when the sun shines on your metal panels & heats them up). When this heat is reflected, less enters your carport, keeping everything below the carport roof noticeably cooler.

      • R-Value Isn’t the Solution: Although BlueTex™ offers about R‑1 insulation (a measure of thermal resistance), what really matters in a non-conditioned space like a carport is radiant heat control—not thickness. Learn more about why R-value doesn't always matter in these spaces on our R-Value Information Page.

      RV parked inside a metal carport lined with BlueTex™ radiant barrier insulation for heat control

      Quick Terms Reference

      • Radiant Heat: Think of it as warmth you feel from the sun or a hot surface—not the air itself. Metal roofs absorb heat and radiate it downward; BlueTex™ blocks that energy/heat.

      • Air Gap: Even a small space (as little as ½ inch) between the foil radiant barrier layer and the metal panels on your carport is effective. This gap forces the heat to stay in radiant form, so the foil can reflect it away. 

      • R-Value: This measures resistance to heat flow via conduction. In a hot, ventilated space, it’s less relevant. Radiant barriers like BlueTex™ are far more efficient at cooling than just using bulky insulation. 

      Open metal carport used for equipment storage before adding BlueTex™ radiant barrier insulation

      How to Install for Best Results

      1. Attach the BlueTex™ to the underside of your carport roof, at the bottom of the purlins. This will create a small air gap between the BlueTex™ and the metal panels. This gap lets the heat reflect back toward the roof and prevents it from being directed onto your vehicles/storage. Use screws/locking washers to screw the BlueTex™ into the metal purlins along the roof and cover the entire underside. 

      2. Don’t worry about moisture—since your carport is open-air, condensation isn’t a serious concern like it would be inside closed metal buildings. This means you don't have to tape the seams, but you can if you want it to look more finished. Either way you gain the cooling benefits without having to seal things up or add bulky R-value!

      3. Cover the side walls - you may have 2 or 3 walls on your carport and if you do, you should install BlueTex™ on those as well, unless they're shared with another building or are shaded. Use screws and locking washers here, just like the roof, and space them about 2' apart. The more wall surface you cover, the better your overall results will be.

      4. Leave the sides/ends open or install low-level vents or even a fan to push air through the space. If your carport is open on one (or both) ends, keep it open. We want air moving through the space to keep things dry and help lower that air temperature. If you have no way of air moving through the space (for example you have 3 walls and the roof), you can install a ridge vent or a fan near the open end. The vent allows warm air to rise and escape naturally and the fan pushes in cool outside air through the warm carport, keeping things cooler and dry.

       

      With just BlueTex™ installed on your carport ceiling and the air flowing below, you’ll likely notice temperatures sit closer to ambient—about 10 to 15°F cooler than an uninsulated metal roof. Even without walls or HVAC, it’s a small investment for a major comfort upgrade!

      How to Install BlueTex™ Between Old Insulation and Existing Metal Girts/Purlins

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      How to Install BlueTex™ Between Old Insulation and Existing Metal Girts/Purlins

      Note: This method involves removing the screws from the outside of the building.

      If you're looking to cover old insulation from the inside of the building, without removing exterior wall screws, you can find that installation info here.

      Use this install method to do a partial wall refinish (select sections) or the full wall. If doing the full wall, the top screws (near the roof edge) are NOT removed from the outside. They are usually “hidden” by either trim or gutters.  

      Method #1 - Bluetex Pro is pushed between old insulation and behind metal purlins after removing screws from outside

      Supplies Needed:

      1. BlueTex™ Pro 2mm 50" wide insulation

      2. BlueTex™ 3" wide white vapor barrier seam tape

      3. BlueTex™ 48" wide aluminum term bars (screws included) or some other bar to hold the insulation against the girts (wood is a good alternative)
      Use a drywall knife or putty knife to push between old insulation and metal purlin

      Covering up the ENTIRE WALL

      If you're doing the full wall, you will cover from the ground to roofline in one piece.

      Step 1: Measure the wall/section height & add 6" to it.

      1. If your insulation has areas where it's fallen off or is missing, take the time to fill in these areas with some batt insulation so the thickness of the wall is uniform.

      2. Measure your wall height + 6" and cut this off your Pro 2mm roll.

      3. Gather your aluminum term bars (or other material you're using) and your drill.

      Step 2: Remove a section of exterior screws & anchor your bottom piece.

      1. Begin by removing the screw panels from outside for the section you are working on.

      2. Pull the BlueTex™ PRO from the ground upward, guiding it between the old insulation and the girts/purlin(s) continuing until you get to the top girt/purlin on the wall.

      3. Let the top piece of BlueTex™ hang in place while you secure your floor piece.

      4. Go back to the ground and prepare to attach the bottom of the BlueTex™ to the ground/bottom of the wall using one of the three options below to connect it to the floor/L-bracket. Our recommendation is to do Option 3. 

      Option #1 - Tuck BlueTex™ insulation between the old insulation and L bracket.
      You might have to cut the facing if your original insulation was taped to the L-bracket.

        • Cut BlueTex™ straight for bottom edge.

        • Use drywall taping knife or 6” putty knife to push BlueTex™ in between the old insulation and your L-bracket.

        • Re-use screws from outside to girts to secure; the screws should line up.

        • OPTIONAL: Use a thin piece of metal or something like a coat hanger to line up the screw holes if needed. Push from outside and get help putting through original holes. Once one is in, the rest should line up easily.

      Option #2 - Push BlueTex™ insulation ON TO existing screws through the floor L-bracket. 

        • If you have screws coming through the L-brackets you should be able to use our insulation washers and push on to secure.

        • A ½" deep socket works great and use either a hammer to tap on or if you have a hammer drill with hammer only or chisel mode works great to push it on.

      Option #3 - Screw BlueTex™ insulation into metal panel rib cavities.

        • This is similar to the push on screw method except you use our ¾" self-drilling screws and insulation washers to secure the BlueTex™ to the bottom L-bracket. With this method you do NOT undo the exterior metal screws on the bottom L-bracket, you only undo the screws in the middle purlins.

        • The KEY here is you can only put the screws where the ribs are in your panel. Otherwise, the screws will penetrate the exterior metal.

        • Depending on your metal panel type the ribs are usually 9-12 inches apart. The good thing is they are very consistent, so double check the center to center rib distance on the outside of building.

        • Cut into the old insulation to find a rib, or use a screwdriver to poke through the insulation and find the center of a rib.  Then, you can precisely make marks on the L-bracket (or ground) for where the screws will go.

      This customer did not remove screws at bottom L-Bracket. They used the BlueTex Insulation washers and pushed onto panel screws to secure BlueTex Insulation on the front side of the L-Brackets

      Step 3: Pull your BlueTex™ tight and secure the top portion.

      1. Once the BlueTex™ is secured to the bottom L-bracket at the floor level, go to the top of the wall and push upward on the "tab" at the top EAVE STRUT. This will make the BlueTex™ smooth and tight. BE SURE IT IS STRAIGHT UP/DOWN.

        Push upward to make BlueTex Insulation smooth and tight

      2. Then use our aluminum term bar and screws (or a wood strip) to secure the BlueTex™ to the bottom of the top eave strut In the CENTER ONLY. 
        If you go with wood strips, we recommend preparing several pieces of wood at a time by pre-drilling 1/8" holes through the wood to prevent splitting. Then, pre-load your screws into the pre-drilled holes so you're ready to go.

      3. Have a helper pull the edges upward to make sure BlueTex™ is smooth and tight as you secure the term bar and cinch the insulation behind it.

      Step 4: Replace the exterior screws and seal your seams.

      1. Replace screws from outside to cinch/lock BlueTex™ between your metal panel and wall girts/purlins.

      2. Finish the wall by taping all your seams with our 3" wide seam tape. 

       

      Covering The Bottom Partial Wall Only

      If you're only doing the lowest section of the walls, between the ground and the first purlin, follow these instructions:

      1. Start with the BlueTex™ roll on the ground and pull the piece up and between the old insulation and purlin, overlapping by at least 3”.

      2. Continue upward, past the actual purlin about 6” so you have a tab you can pull later, to tighten the BlueTex™.

      3. At this point, the BlueTex™ should be straight up/down with about 6” sticking past the top of the purlin. Secure bottom of BlueTex™ to floor L-bracket.  SEE Bottom/Floor Connection Methods in Step 2 above.

      4. Next, you will want to pull upward on the BlueTex™ with moderate pressure to make it smooth and taut/tight. Once it’s tight, reuse the screws from the outside in existing holes through the metal skin, through the BlueTex™ Insulation and into the purlin.

      5. Fold the BlueTex™ down on the purlin and use the purlin as a cutting board to trim off excess insulation.

        Fold the BlueTex™ down on the purlin and use the purlin as a cutting board to trim off excess insulation.

      6. Tape the seams with BlueTex™ 3” white vapor barrier seam tape. Tips for the best seaming: 

        • It’s best to have at least two people sealing the seams.
        • Pre-cut the length of tape needed, keeping the tape flat. 
        • Have one person hold the top and press down the seam while the other person pulls the tape tight and holds about 12"-18" inches away. 
        • Continue until the seam is covered and tight.
      Flexible and easy to install behind equipment/panels etc.

      Can I Install BlueTex™ Insulation on the Roof Portion Only?

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      BlueTex™ Insulation Roof-Only Installation

      Absolutely! Many customers opt to install BlueTex™ metal building insulation on the roof portion only, and it's a great option, especially if your main goal is to control condensation.

      Why Focus on the Roof First?

      Condensation tends to form primarily on the roof of a metal building, though you can find condensation on the walls too. Condensation forms due to the temperature differences between the outside and the inside of the building. When warm, moist air comes into contact with a cool roof surface, condensation occurs. By installing BlueTex™ on the roof, you're addressing the main area where moisture can accumulate. BlueTex™ helps to keep the roof relatively warmer than the metal without BlueTex™ and this helps reduce the chance of moisture forming. The BlueTex™ 6mm Supreme is the best product for moisture control, so we recommend that for a roof-only application.

       

      Benefits of Roof-Only Installation:

      • Condensation Control: Since the roof is the primary area where condensation forms, insulating it can significantly reduce moisture buildup. This is especially important in metal buildings, carports, and garages where condensation can cause rust or damage.
      • Instant Shade: Insulating your roof with BlueTex™ also helps to create an “instant shade” effect, significantly reducing heat gain during hot summer months because of the radiant barrier layer. You’ll notice cooler temperatures inside, even without cooling equipment, making the space more comfortable to use.
      • Efficient for Non-Conditioned Spaces: If your building is rarely or never heated or cooled, focusing on the roofline is an efficient solution to cut back on the heat gain. You'll get the most benefit from reduced heat transfer without the need to fully insulate the entire structure.

      When to Consider Fully Insulating

      If you plan on regularly heating or cooling your building (creating an office space, an apartment, or a full-time home), insulating your building with radiant barrier and R-value insulation is usually the best choice. For these applications you should plan to insulate both the walls and the roofline for maximum comfort and efficiency. We cover the basics of this type of application here: Insulating a Fully Conditioned Building.

      However, for many carports, garages, or outbuildings that are used for storage or occasional work, roof-only insulation provides a practical and cost-effective solution. Remember, non-conditioned buildings don't need R-value to feel more comfortable.

      In conclusion, installing BlueTex™ insulation on the roof portion only is an excellent way to control condensation and reduce heat gain, especially in spaces that aren’t regularly climate-controlled. It's a simple, effective solution to improve the comfort and longevity of your structure!