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      How to Install BlueTex™ Between Old Insulation and Existing Metal Girts/Purlins

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      How to Install BlueTex™ Between Old Insulation and Existing Metal Girts/Purlins

      Note: This method involves removing the screws from the outside of the building.

      If you're looking to cover old insulation from the inside of the building, without removing exterior wall screws, you can find that installation info here.

      Use this install method to do a partial wall refinish (select sections) or the full wall. If doing the full wall, the top screws (near the roof edge) are NOT removed from the outside. They are usually “hidden” by either trim or gutters.  

      Method #1 - Bluetex Pro is pushed between old insulation and behind metal purlins after removing screws from outside

      Supplies Needed:

      1. BlueTex™ Pro 2mm 50" wide insulation

      2. BlueTex™ 3" wide white vapor barrier seam tape

      3. BlueTex™ 48" wide aluminum term bars (screws included) or some other bar to hold the insulation against the girts (wood is a good alternative)
      Use a drywall knife or putty knife to push between old insulation and metal purlin

      Covering up the ENTIRE WALL

      If you're doing the full wall, you will cover from the ground to roofline in one piece.

      Step 1: Measure the wall/section height & add 6" to it.

      1. If your insulation has areas where it's fallen off or is missing, take the time to fill in these areas with some batt insulation so the thickness of the wall is uniform.

      2. Measure your wall height + 6" and cut this off your Pro 2mm roll.

      3. Gather your aluminum term bars (or other material you're using) and your drill.

      Step 2: Remove a section of exterior screws & anchor your bottom piece.

      1. Begin by removing the screw panels from outside for the section you are working on.

      2. Pull the BlueTex™ PRO from the ground upward, guiding it between the old insulation and the girts/purlin(s) continuing until you get to the top girt/purlin on the wall.

      3. Let the top piece of BlueTex™ hang in place while you secure your floor piece.

      4. Go back to the ground and prepare to attach the bottom of the BlueTex™ to the ground/bottom of the wall using one of the three options below to connect it to the floor/L-bracket. Our recommendation is to do Option 3. 

      Option #1 - Tuck BlueTex™ insulation between the old insulation and L bracket.
      You might have to cut the facing if your original insulation was taped to the L-bracket.

        • Cut BlueTex™ straight for bottom edge.

        • Use drywall taping knife or 6” putty knife to push BlueTex™ in between the old insulation and your L-bracket.

        • Re-use screws from outside to girts to secure; the screws should line up.

        • OPTIONAL: Use a thin piece of metal or something like a coat hanger to line up the screw holes if needed. Push from outside and get help putting through original holes. Once one is in, the rest should line up easily.

      Option #2 - Push BlueTex™ insulation ON TO existing screws through the floor L-bracket. 

        • If you have screws coming through the L-brackets you should be able to use our insulation washers and push on to secure.

        • A ½" deep socket works great and use either a hammer to tap on or if you have a hammer drill with hammer only or chisel mode works great to push it on.

      Option #3 - Screw BlueTex™ insulation into metal panel rib cavities.

        • This is similar to the push on screw method except you use our ¾" self-drilling screws and insulation washers to secure the BlueTex™ to the bottom L-bracket. With this method you do NOT undo the exterior metal screws on the bottom L-bracket, you only undo the screws in the middle purlins.

        • The KEY here is you can only put the screws where the ribs are in your panel. Otherwise, the screws will penetrate the exterior metal.

        • Depending on your metal panel type the ribs are usually 9-12 inches apart. The good thing is they are very consistent, so double check the center to center rib distance on the outside of building.

        • Cut into the old insulation to find a rib, or use a screwdriver to poke through the insulation and find the center of a rib.  Then, you can precisely make marks on the L-bracket (or ground) for where the screws will go.

      This customer did not remove screws at bottom L-Bracket. They used the BlueTex Insulation washers and pushed onto panel screws to secure BlueTex Insulation on the front side of the L-Brackets

      Step 3: Pull your BlueTex™ tight and secure the top portion.

      1. Once the BlueTex™ is secured to the bottom L-bracket at the floor level, go to the top of the wall and push upward on the "tab" at the top EAVE STRUT. This will make the BlueTex™ smooth and tight. BE SURE IT IS STRAIGHT UP/DOWN.

        Push upward to make BlueTex Insulation smooth and tight

      2. Then use our aluminum term bar and screws (or a wood strip) to secure the BlueTex™ to the bottom of the top eave strut In the CENTER ONLY. 
        If you go with wood strips, we recommend preparing several pieces of wood at a time by pre-drilling 1/8" holes through the wood to prevent splitting. Then, pre-load your screws into the pre-drilled holes so you're ready to go.

      3. Have a helper pull the edges upward to make sure BlueTex™ is smooth and tight as you secure the term bar and cinch the insulation behind it.

      Step 4: Replace the exterior screws and seal your seams.

      1. Replace screws from outside to cinch/lock BlueTex™ between your metal panel and wall girts/purlins.

      2. Finish the wall by taping all your seams with our 3" wide seam tape. 

       

      Covering The Bottom Partial Wall Only

      If you're only doing the lowest section of the walls, between the ground and the first purlin, follow these instructions:

      1. Start with the BlueTex™ roll on the ground and pull the piece up and between the old insulation and purlin, overlapping by at least 3”.

      2. Continue upward, past the actual purlin about 6” so you have a tab you can pull later, to tighten the BlueTex™.

      3. At this point, the BlueTex™ should be straight up/down with about 6” sticking past the top of the purlin. Secure bottom of BlueTex™ to floor L-bracket.  SEE Bottom/Floor Connection Methods in Step 2 above.

      4. Next, you will want to pull upward on the BlueTex™ with moderate pressure to make it smooth and taut/tight. Once it’s tight, reuse the screws from the outside in existing holes through the metal skin, through the BlueTex™ Insulation and into the purlin.

      5. Fold the BlueTex™ down on the purlin and use the purlin as a cutting board to trim off excess insulation.

        Fold the BlueTex™ down on the purlin and use the purlin as a cutting board to trim off excess insulation.

      6. Tape the seams with BlueTex™ 3” white vapor barrier seam tape. Tips for the best seaming: 

        • It’s best to have at least two people sealing the seams.
        • Pre-cut the length of tape needed, keeping the tape flat. 
        • Have one person hold the top and press down the seam while the other person pulls the tape tight and holds about 12"-18" inches away. 
        • Continue until the seam is covered and tight.
      Flexible and easy to install behind equipment/panels etc.

      Can I Install BlueTex™ Insulation on the Roof Portion Only?

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      BlueTex™ Insulation Roof-Only Installation

      Absolutely! Many customers opt to install BlueTex™ metal building insulation on the roof portion only, and it's a great option, especially if your main goal is to control condensation.

      Why Focus on the Roof First?

      Condensation tends to form primarily on the roof of a metal building, though you can find condensation on the walls too. Condensation forms due to the temperature differences between the outside and the inside of the building. When warm, moist air comes into contact with a cool roof surface, condensation occurs. By installing BlueTex™ on the roof, you're addressing the main area where moisture can accumulate. BlueTex™ helps to keep the roof relatively warmer than the metal without BlueTex™ and this helps reduce the chance of moisture forming. The BlueTex™ 6mm Supreme is the best product for moisture control, so we recommend that for a roof-only application.

       

      Benefits of Roof-Only Installation:

      • Condensation Control: Since the roof is the primary area where condensation forms, insulating it can significantly reduce moisture buildup. This is especially important in metal buildings, carports, and garages where condensation can cause rust or damage.
      • Instant Shade: Insulating your roof with BlueTex™ also helps to create an “instant shade” effect, significantly reducing heat gain during hot summer months because of the radiant barrier layer. You’ll notice cooler temperatures inside, even without cooling equipment, making the space more comfortable to use.
      • Efficient for Non-Conditioned Spaces: If your building is rarely or never heated or cooled, focusing on the roofline is an efficient solution to cut back on the heat gain. You'll get the most benefit from reduced heat transfer without the need to fully insulate the entire structure.

      When to Consider Fully Insulating

      If you plan on regularly heating or cooling your building (creating an office space, an apartment, or a full-time home), insulating your building with radiant barrier and R-value insulation is usually the best choice. For these applications you should plan to insulate both the walls and the roofline for maximum comfort and efficiency. We cover the basics of this type of application here: Insulating a Fully Conditioned Building.

      However, for many carports, garages, or outbuildings that are used for storage or occasional work, roof-only insulation provides a practical and cost-effective solution. Remember, non-conditioned buildings don't need R-value to feel more comfortable.

      In conclusion, installing BlueTex™ insulation on the roof portion only is an excellent way to control condensation and reduce heat gain, especially in spaces that aren’t regularly climate-controlled. It's a simple, effective solution to improve the comfort and longevity of your structure!

      Residential Panel Garage Door Installation

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      ***Please CALL US if you have any questions about this install method.***

      This page shows you how to add BlueTex™ garage door insulation to a residential, panel-style garage door with panels that are no taller than 21" from center to center. These doors roll up on tracks and have individual panels instead of one singular sheet of metal like a roll up garage door.

      Most doors will have either 4-panel rows or 5-panel rows, the residential garage door kits are customized to the number of panels you have but the install process is the same for both.

      BlueTex™ Residential Garage Door Insulation Kit

      Each panel style garage door insulation kit includes:

      • 22" wide BlueTex™ 2mm Pro insulation rolls
      • 180' long roll of 3M® double-sided tape (to attach the insulation to the metal panels)
      • 196' long roll of 2" wide white seam tape )to seal the edges of the insulation onto the door)
      • screws/washers (option if you want to screw the insulation into the door)

      How To Install BlueTex™ on a Panel Style Garage Door

      Step 1: Prep the door & add a row of double-sided tape

      • You want to start by making sure the door is wiped clean and dry. No need to use chemicals, just some water and a rag to clean off dust/dirt. If you have old residue on the door, you can remove that too. 
      • Start with the door closed and start at the bottom of the door. Apply your 3M® double-sided tape and apply it across the seam where the panels meet, for the full width of the door. This means your tape will go across the seam between the 2 panels - that's OK for now. Cover evenly and do NOT take the paper back off yet. Just apply one sticky side to the door panel and press firmly along the bottom lip and hinge.
      • Add double-sided tape on the vertical sides of each panel along the bottom row too. Do not remove the liner yet, just one side of the tape on the door for now.

      Step 2: Start along the top edge of the bottom row of panels on the door

      • Starting with the bottom panel, measure a piece of BlueTex™ 2" - 3" wider than the door and cut it off the roll and set it aside.
      • Now, come in with your knife and slit the seam on the double sided tape between the panels. Remove the paper liner from the bottom panel only (this will run along the top of the lower panel). 
      • Open the door about 12"-18" just enough that the seam between the bottom panel and the next one is opened up.
      • Hold your pre-cut piece of BlueTex™ level and press the top edge to the double sided tape, keeping level. Cut a small slit where the hinges are and place your run across the entire panel, pressing firmly on the tape edge.
      • When you're done you should have a piece of BlueTex™ going the whole width of the door, kind of like a mudflap (bottom edge not secured to the door yet).


      Step 3: Secure the bottom edge across the bottom row of the door

      • Have one person lift up the panel of BlueTex™ so you can remove the paper liner from the bottom strip of double-sided tape. BE CAREFUL to prevent the foil side from sticking to double-sided tape before you want it to - once it grabs on, it's very sticky and tough to re-position!
      • Press onto the bottom strip of tape and on the vertical sides of the panels, moving from one side to the other, removing the paper off the double-sided tape as you go. Press firmly onto your double-sided tape.

      • At this point, the bottom of the door should still be off the ground and your piece should be firmly stuck to the bottom panel. Use a sharp knife to trim BlueTex™ flush with the bottom of the metal door.
      • Close the door and DO NOT OPEN AGAIN until you get to the later steps when all the panels are installed.

      Step 4: Move to the next row of panels up from the bottom of the door

      • Measure a piece of BlueTex™ 2" - 3" wider than the door and cut it off the roll and set it aside.
      • Install double-sided tape on this hinge the full width of the door. At this point you can go ahead and install your tape on the rest of the door covering hinges and vertical bracing.
      • Super important: DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR once your double-sided tape is applied!!
      • Install your second row across the panels just like the first one - slice your double-sided tape on the seams first, then align the top edge first and stick your BlueTex™ to the tape, letting the bottom flap hang down until the entire top flap is done. 
      • Come back through and do the bottom of the second row of  just like the one above except this time you have an overlap. The bottom of the BlueTex™ SHOULD go past the double-sided tape a couple inches. This is OK and will be trimmed later. 
      • Continue installing the BlueTex™ on the panels until the whole door is covered. Don't worry about seams as you go - we'll do this all at the end in the next step.

      Step 5: Open seams and add tape to finish

      • Use a knife and cut through both layers of the BlueTex™ and double sided tape on each hinge for the whole door. 
      • Now you can open the door at intervals, stopping when the panel you're working on is opened and accessible.
      • Use our 2" or 3" white tape to tape on top/bottom/sides of each panel, allowing half of the tape to be on the BlueTex™ and the other half on the metal door. 
      • Continue this until all panels are seamed on all edges with tape.
         

      Do Your Doors Have High Wind Bracing? 

      If your doors are secured with horizontal bracing (usually in high wind areas), you can still use BlueTex™ to insulate your panel style garage door. To install on these types of doors, remove one brace at a time, install BlueTex™ on the door, then replace the brace and secure it tight. See below for a customer who did exactly this, and notice how good his results are!


      More photos from customers of their finished panel style garage doors with BlueTex™ insulation added:

      The BlueTex™ EasyClip™ System and The Roof Cover System for Repairing Old Insulation

      Posted by Edward Fritz ·

      Cover up old, torn, dirty roof insulation easily with BlueTex Insulation

      If you have a building with old insulation up in the roofline and you're looking for a way to cover it up or repair it without starting all the way over, we have two great options for achieving this. 

      Two Systems to Cover Old Insulation on the Roofline

      The BlueTex™ EasyClip™ system uses custom designed, injection molded, polypropylene clips with protruding pins that fit snugly onto the bottom of a C-purlin or a Z-purlin along the roofline. The BlueTex™ insulation is then "stabbed" onto the bottom of the pin and a washer is added to secure the BlueTex™ permanently onto the pin/clip.

      BlueTex EasyClip System - Before & After

      The BlueTex™ Roof Cover System that uses metal screws and locking washers to secure the BlueTex™ directly onto the metal purlins. 

      BlueTex Roof Cover System - Before & After

      Below we will cover the Pros and Cons of each system so you can decide which approach is best for your application.

      The Pros

      The EasyClip™ System Pros:

      • Hides rusty, dirty metal purlins by creating a new interior finish across the roof.
      • A dead air space between BlueTex™ and the roof adds additional r-value.
      • Save energy and improve comfort!
      • Foil side is a radiant barrier, reflect 97% of radiant heat and create an instant shade effect.
      • Get better condensation control on the bottom of the purlins - no more dripping!
      • This install method can easily be modified for wood framing.
      • Gain the ability to MAXIMIZE additional insulation (r-value) between the BlueTex™ layer and the old insulation.
      • This is the best way to convert a bare metal roof from a “non-conditioned” to “conditioned” building.

      The Roof Cover System Pros:

      • Easy to handle smaller pieces of insulation
      • Great for smaller damaged areas
      • Perfect for “patch” jobs
      • Blends in with the old insulation
      • Installed above lights, conduit, sprinkler systems, etc.
      • Can easily be applied to a wood roof

      The Cons

      The EasyClip™ System Cons:

      • Works best for doing full roof area (not as good for smaller areas).
      • You may need to work around lights, conduit, sprinkler systems, skylights, etc., since you're attaching the product to the bottom of the purlins.
      • This method involves handling longer pieces at a time.

      The Roof Cover System Cons:

      • The purlins may still get cold, which can lead to condensation on the bottom of the purlins
      • You'll just have the existing r-value based on what's already on the roofline and there's not a good way to add more r-value with this method.

      Covering Old Insulation on the Roofline

      Both methods are good options to cover up unsightly insulation along the roofline but one may be a better fit that the other.

      Covering Old Insulation on the Roofline - before and after

      We have the supplies you need to do either method right here on our website and we provide live technical support to answer any follow up questions you have about either of these methods. For more info, see:

      How to Install the EasyClip™ System

      How to Install the Roof Cover System

      Covering Old Insulation on Walls