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      Articles

      Stucco Tape

      4 inch stucco tape

      Why are we talking about Stucco Tape on a metal building insulation website? Here’s a fun fact: BlueTex™ insulation seam tape AND stucco tape use the EXACT same type of tape!
       
      Honestly, we didn’t know it either! Stucco and metal building vapor barrier insulation are totally different worlds.
       
      Then one day, we got a call from a guy who wanted to buy a full case of our 6” wide vapor barrier tape. He had purchased some BlueTex™ insulation for his metal shed and a couple rolls of the BlueTex™ 3” seam tape. It happened that he is a stucco contractor and he ended up with some extra tape. He really liked how the tape worked, so he took the left over roll to test on a stucco job. Turns out, it actually performed BETTER than the “special" stucco tape he was buying at a higher price from his local supplier. He also recognized that our 6” tape is perfect for using only one piece to completely cover door and window frames.
       
      So, there you go. We are now accidentally in the stucco tape business and regularly have stucco contractors, painters, and other contractors buying our seam tape (we offer box/bulk discounts) for all types of applications. Who would have thought? Though truthfully, we aren’t too surprised because every product we sell is only the best quality. We sell direct and cut out the middle man, so we can sell a better quality product at a lower price.
       
      You might be wondering, What makes a good stucco tape? Something that we call the “slow bond” property. This is when you need the tape to stick well, but not TOO well at first. Our PE (polyethylene) film tape uses a synthetic rubber adhesive to stick to most smooth surfaces and it’s pressure sensitive with a high degree of conformity. This means you can easily pull, bend, wrap, press into cracks etc. without it tearing or excessively stretching; the tape is also moisture resistant so it can be used in both outdoor and indoor applications.
       
      You want a tape to stick good and tight, making a durable seal to your substrate. However you also need to be able to remove it later (30-45 days) without it tearing into little pieces after the stucco or paint is applied. Additionally, you do not want a sticky, gummy residue left behind on the windows and frames when the tape is removed. The makings of a good stucco tape have a LOT of requirements!
       
      Eventually, if the tape is left on long enough, the “slow bond” becomes incredibly difficult to remove. The reason for this is because there is an actual chemical change in the adhesive over time that makes it create a permanent seal. This is perfect for sealing metal building insulation, but if you're using our tape for stucco or painting applications, you do not want to let it go past 45 days if you will need to remove it later.
       
      If you're looking for vapor barrier seam tape, stucco tape, painting tape, etc... we have your tape!
       
      Our all-purpose tape is currently available in 3”, 4” and 6” wide rolls. 2” rolls coming soon.

      How does BlueTex™ Insulation compare to Dripstop®?

      Comparing Moisture Control Insulation - Bluetex Insulation vs Dripstop

      Dripstop® is a condensation control membrane made from a nonwoven fabric that has an adhesive backing. It comes pre-applied directly to the bottom of metal roofing panels for easy installation. Therefore, it can ONLY be used on new construction.

      How does it work? First of all, it is NOT a vapor barrier. Dripstop® works like a sponge, so the metal will still get cold and wet. The DripStop® absorbs condensation (like a sponge) to keep it from dripping overnight, and then it dries out during day. It repeats this pattern over and over - absorbing and drying out. But, like a sponge, you have to have a method to dry it out.

      This is the main disadvantage to Dripstop®; you MUST have a well-ventilated building for it to dry out. Which is fine, except if you're in a cold climate and you want to keep your building warmer than the outside temperature - then what? If you're in a cold climate and have to fully ventilate the building, your building interior will be RIPPING COLD. Period. While that may be fine for applications like cold storage, most buildings don't want a super-cold interior when it's cold out. Spaces being used for garages, sheds, barns, workshops or airplane hangars, want SOMETHING to keep it warmer (or cooler) than the outside temperature. So, this wouldn't be a good fit for those applications.

      Another disadvantage of Dripstop® is that it offers no heat control (no radiant barrier is used in the product). Your building is still going to be HOT in the summer since it’s just a big bare metal box sitting in the sun.

      Let us be clear, we don't think Dripstop® is a bad product, but we do think you can do better and we'll explain how below.   

      BlueTex™ insulation has the advantage of being able to be used in any building - both new construction and existing buildings so anyone can use it at anytime.

      Furthermore, BlueTex™ insulation offers superior heat control in metal buildings compared to DripStop®, especially non-conditioned buildings. There's nothing better than a radiant barrier to take the edge off being inside a metal building in summer. Our pure aluminum layer will reflect 97% of the radiant heat coming off the roof and walls inside your building and redirect that heat back out. The end result is a cooler interior, even without A/C! The building will FEEL like it’s in the shade or it’s a cloudy day. If you're going to go through the process of installing insulation, why not use an insulation that has a radiant barrier too? You have nothing to lose by adding foil insulation to your building, and once you feel the difference, you'll agree. When it comes to condensation control, heat control plays a big part too, so a radiant barrier is a good option to include in your metal building insulation.

      Even if you only plan to heat or cool the building occasionally, as needed, to take the edge off, BlueTex™ for metal buildings is still PERFECT for these “semi-conditioned” buildings (buildings that are heated or cooled every now and then). Think of BlueTex™ as a light jacket or a sweatshirt. It’s all you need to keep the building workable when it’s really hot or cold.

      One more point about BlueTex™ being a better option than Dripstop® for condensation control. We tackle condensation from a different direction than Dripstop®. Rather than allow condensation to perpetuate daily and just catch and release it, BlueTex™ aims to actually stop the condensation process from happening at all. In our Guide to Moisture Management, we discuss how condensation forms in metal buildings (on metal surfaces) and how to use BlueTex™ insulation to stop condensation from forming on your metal surfaces. We want you to be confident that you can stop condensation from consistently raining inside your building with just a few supplies and a careful installation. 

      If you'd like more information on how BlueTex™ can help you stop heat gain, help you retain heat in winter, and be a solution to condensation problems in your building, contact us today.

      4 Tips for Creating a Comfortable and Functional Shed for Storage

      4 Tips for Creating a Comfortable and Functional Shed for Storage
      Storage units can be used to store yard equipment, tools, items you don’t have room for in your home, seasonal items, projects, or anything else out you want out of your home space. Check out our 5 best tips for making your storage area comfortable, dry, and enjoyable to use!

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      Why Spray Foam Insulation Works So Well in Metal Buildings

      Why Spray Foam Insulation Works So Well in Metal Buildings

      Spray foam is great for metal buildings. This especially true If you are creating a “fully-conditioned” building, meaning a building that you are going to be heating or cooling on a continuous basis. 

       

      From a building science standpoint, the absolute best way to approach insulating a steel building is to think of it as one giant refrigerator. That’s basically what it is: a big metal box you're trying to keep cool. The difference is, for a metal building, you’re just keeping relatively cool (maybe 75 degrees) compared to a refrigerator's cool, which is around 40 degrees.

       

      To successfully insulate your metal building, you want both a well-insulated and air-tight box, just like a refrigerator. This will provide the highest level of energy efficiency in your barndominium or metal building.

      Here are some reasons why spray foam insulation is best for metal buildings.

      • It’s continuous. The spray foam, when properly applied, creates a continuous “thermal envelope” just like a refrigerator. There are very few places that the heat can easily get in or out on a spray foamed building.
      • It's durable. Traditional fiberglass insulation with a vinyl covering will eventually get torn, deteriorate, and become brittle. When this happens, warm air from inside the building can go through the fiberglass and create condensation on the metal turning into liquid water. This water ends up causing the insulation to get wet, stained, and moldy. Closed cell spray foam is hard and durable, and won’t tear or rip under normal conditions.
      • Spray foam is also a vapor barrier.  You want the inside of your metal building to have a vapor barrier if you are fully heating/cooling it.  You want the relatively warm-moist air to be stopped before it can get to the cold metal and condense.
      • It's easier to install. Traditional fiberglass batt insulation is installed when the exterior metal is put on. If it’s windy, or wet, the insulation is hard to handle and you must hang and cut every piece as you go. Plus, it’s not uncommon for the insulation to get wet or damaged before it’s ever installed. Spray foam insulation is installed after the building walls and roof are done. It’s sprayed from the inside, and can be installed in pretty much any weather conditions.
      • Spray foam reduces thermal bypass. With traditional fiberglass insulation the fiberglass batt is installed between the purlin and the metal skin. At this connection point the fiberglass is compressed down to almost nothing.  This allows what is called “thermal bypass” and causes the purlin to get cold which results in interior condensation. Spray foam insulation fixes this since the purlin is sprayed from the inside.

      Now think about this: would you agree a refrigerator in the shade will be easier to cool and be more efficient than one in the sun? The reason you agree to that statement illustrates the concept of radiant heat. Now, think of how much bigger a metal building is than a refrigerator and you can see how big of an impact insulation has on how much heat enters the building. In fact, when the sun is shining on a metal building it can easily have double the amount of heat entering compared to when a building is in the shade, or on a cloudy day. So, Ideally you want to combine spray foam insulation with a radiant barrier layer for maximum efficiency and comfort.

      What about buildings that you are not heating and cooling all the time, or just occasionally adding heat and cooling to? These are called non-conditioned or semi-conditioned buildings. Since you are not continuously heating and cooling, you really don’t build a refrigerator, you need something more like a light jacket just to take the edge off. This is exactly what BlueTex™ Insulation is designed for.  Metal buildings that you will want the shade effect for, like garages, airplane hangars, workshops, storage facilities, etc. and buildings that need to control condensation, but don’t want to pay the high price of spray foam insulation, will benefit most from BlueTex™ foil foam products.