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      Articles — ventilation

      Condensation & Vapor Diffusion in Metal Building Cavities

      Condensation in metal buildings

      When we talk about moisture in non-conditioned metal buildings, most people picture visible condensation on cold metal walls or on the bottom of the roofing dripping down inside the building. What’s less obvious — but far more important — is what’s happening microscopically inside the wall cavities of a building, especially if the walls and ceiling are closed up. 

      Do you know how moisture moves, where it accumulates, and why controlling that movement is essential for long-term building durability? If you have a semi-conditioned building (one that may occasionally use heating or cooling) or one that stores moisture-rich items like plants, dirt, feed, etc. and you have a vapor barrier on the interior, read on to learn more about controlling condensation and troubleshooting moisture problems.

      Condensation forming on metal roof behind insulation in a non-conditioned metal building

      Understanding moisture dynamics — condensation, capillary action, and vapor diffusion — helps you design walls that can successfully keep moisture out.

      The Three Main Mechanisms That Bring Moisture Inside Your Building

      Inside a wall (or roof) cavity of your building, moisture travels in three primary ways:

      1. Condensation – When Vapor Turns to Liquid

        Condensation occurs when warm, moisture-laden air encounters a surface that is cool enough for water vapor to change phase into liquid. In metal buildings, this often happens when warm interior air contacts the cold steel skin — especially at night after a sunny day. This is exactly what causes “sweating” on walls or ceilings. As building-science experts note, the real problem isn’t just water forming on a surface — it’s when that moisture stays wet long enough to initiate corrosion, mold, or decay.

      2. Capillary Action – Liquid Wicking Through Materials

        Capillary action is the tendency of liquid water to be drawn into a material’s tiny pores, like a sponge. A good everyday example is a paper towel. When you dip one corner into a spill, the water doesn’t just stay at the bottom — it climbs upward through the towel. That happens because the paper has thousands of microscopic pores that pull water along.

        Building materials behave the same way. Concrete, wood, insulation fibers, and even dirt all have tiny pathways that can draw liquid water in and spread it out. Once water enters one of these materials, it doesn’t need pressure or airflow to move — it simply wicks along on its own.

        Without careful detailing — like drainage spaces — moisture can be wicked into insulation or building materials and remain there, leading to long-term problems. Items like dirt or wood piles, feed storage, or even a bunch of adults gathering can all put moisture into the air. 

        The key to controlling capillary action is interrupting the path water uses to travel. This is done by adding capillary breaks (materials that water cannot wick through), keeping absorbent materials from directly touching wet surfaces, and using vapor barriers and insulation layers that don’t absorb liquid water.

      3. Vapor Diffusion – Vapor Driven by Pressure

        Even when there’s no liquid present, moisture still moves as vapor. Vapor diffusion is the migration of water molecules from areas of high vapor pressure to areas of low vapor pressure — such as from warm, humid interiors toward cooler exterior surfaces or vice versa.

        Not all materials allow vapor to pass through equally. Some act as vapor barriers, others as vapor retarders, and some are vapor open — letting moisture pass freely. Understanding the permeability of each layer in a wall assembly is key to predicting how and where moisture will move and preventing it from getting where it doesn't belong.

      Drying vs. Wetting: The Balancing Act

      The goal of any moisture-control strategy is to try our best to make the conditions unfavorable for moisture to form and to create an impermeable layer between the interior of the building and its metal skin (where condensation is most likely to form).

      In a non-conditioned space, you can tackle condensation and vapor by either sealing the building up so it's airtight inside or by fully venting air through the building (bringing in outside air and flushing it through the building and out the exhaust). More info about venting a space for moisture control can be found on our website here: Using BlueTex in a Carport to Prevent Condensation

      For the purpose of this article, we're discussing buildings that are sealed up inside using a vapor barrier. One note on this: a common mistake in wall design is to install vapor barriers on both sides of a cavity. This effectively “sandwiches” moisture in place and eliminates drying potential — a recipe for trapped moisture and eventual damage. In non-conditioned or semi-conditioned buildings, you only need 1 vapor barrier layer and adding more than that could lead to problems trapping moisture between the two. If you have a fully-conditioned metal building, there are specific instances where two vapor barriers can be (carefully) utilized for maximum moisture control. 

      BlueTex vapor barrier insulation installed on walls and ceiling of a metal building

      Design Principles to Keep Moisture Under Control in Non-Conditioned Buildings

      Here are key principles for managing moisture in wall cavities:

      Control Air Leakage

      Moisture moves much more readily with air than by diffusion alone. Sealing gaps, penetrations, and transitions helps minimize the transport of moist air into cooler wall cavities, where it could condense. This is why overlapping your insulation and vapor barriers, along with using a vapor barrier seam tape, are critical when installing metal building insulation for moisture control. 

      Strategically Place Vapor Barriers and Retarders

      At minimum, a vapor barrier should be placed on the warm side of your insulation (so closest to the interior of the building) in colder climates to limit inward vapor drive. In mixed climates, you typically find the vapor barrier closest to the exterior. When using a single layer of BlueTex™ alone in your building, this is easy to install since there's no other insulation being used. 

      Provide Drying Paths

      Allowing moisture to escape — toward the interior or exterior — ensures that moisture doesn’t accumulate. Back-venting your insulation (the area between the metal skin and your insulation) is another path to keep things dry. You can passively or actively push air between the metal skin and the foil surface of your BlueTex™ to help it stay dry back there. Or you can seal up the bottom of the walls and close any ceiling venting and make a dead air space behind the insulation. The advantage to this, if you do it properly, is that dead air can also give you some R-value!

      For more in-depth moisture control recommendations, see our guide on causes of moisture in metal buildings causes and the companion page on moisture prevention techniques in metal buildings.

      BlueTex Vapor Barriers: Part of Your Moisture Control Strategy

      Both BlueTex 2mm PRO and BlueTex 6mm Supreme act as vapor barriers that help manage moisture movement in wall cavities — but they’re suited to different applications:

      BlueTex 2mm PRO — A reliable vapor barrier and radiant barrier solution that reduces moisture migration and heat transfer in many non-conditioned metal building applications. This is a great option in warm climates or climates that are particularly dry.

      BlueTex 6mm Supreme — A thicker vapor barrier and radiant barrier that delivers superior moisture control, especially in wet, cold climates where buildings are regularly heated but not 24/7. The 6mm Supreme’s enhanced thickness and barrier properties provide improved resistance to vapor diffusion and moisture accumulation in climates prone to condensation cycles. The radiant barrier layer also helps keep heat inside the building in cold seasons, so it stays away from the metal exterior. 

      Finished metal building interior with vapor barrier insulation for moisture control

      Placing these products correctly within your wall assembly helps shift the first condensation surface away from the cold metal to a warmer, controlled surface (the interior BlueTex™). This limits the potential for liquid forming inside the cavity and supports drying when conditions change. We have some more tips on controlling moisture inside a building on this blog post: Moisture Control Tips for Metal Buildings

      Understanding what’s happening inside a wall cavity — how moisture condenses, how water moves through capillary action, and how vapor diffuses through materials — is fundamental to designing moisture-resilient metal buildings.

      By thinking of walls as moisture systems, not just insulation sandwiches, and by using products like BlueTex 2mm PRO and BlueTex 6mm Supreme in assemblies with good air sealing and/or back ventilation, you can dramatically reduce moisture risks and keep interiors dry and effective at controlling temperature inside your building year-round.

      Proper Metal Building Ventilation: The Basics to Keeping Non-Conditioned Spaces Cool and Dry

      Metal Building Ventilation

       

      When it comes to non-conditioned buildings—think garages, barns, carports, workshops, and storage units—two of the most important performance goals are to keep the air temperatures low and the interior dry. Whether you’re storing tools or simply working inside, no one wants to step into a sweltering, damp space. That’s where a proper metal building ventilation strategy makes all the difference.

      Air Temps vs Surface Temps

      There are a various things that can affect the air temperature inside of a non-conditioned building, but typically there are two main factors: the amount of heat entering the structure (heat gain) and the amount of airflow passing through (ventilation). While these two things are independent of one another, when they are controlled and working together, they make the biggest impact on making the building cooler and more comfortable. 

      Before diving into how to ventilate, let’s talk about the science behind heat in a building. There are two types of heat you deal with in a metal structure:

      Air Temperature – The temperature of the air you feel when you walk into the building.

      Surface Temperature – How hot the actual surfaces inside the building feel (walls, ceiling, storage boxes, etc.).

      These are related, but they’re not the same. You can reduce surface temperatures by installing a radiant barrier, like BlueTex™ foil insulation, which reflects radiant heat away from the interior. Meanwhile, ventilation helps reduce air temperature by allowing heat to escape.

      When surface and air temperatures are managed together, you create a dramatically more comfortable and functional space.

      Gaps for Airflow

      Ideally you want to give the air in your structure a free, clear path to flow around the foil installation. Air movement is important for regulating air temperatures and also for keeping the building dry (i.e. preventing any condensation from forming). Just like opening windows on a breezy day cools a house, letting air move inside your building helps reduce heat and moisture.

      If you install radiant barrier foil insulation in your metal building, it’s crucial to leave small gaps for air to flow around the foil. This doesn’t reduce the effectiveness of the insulation—it actually enhances it. Think of it like wearing breathable fabric on a hot day: you stay cooler because air can circulate.

      By leaving some gaps in the installation, air can easily move around the foil – in other words, proper ventilation can take place. The hot air in the building will travel the path of least resistance to make its way out of your building. When you install BlueTex™ with the proper air gaps, it allows for maximum ventilation between the roof and the foil and it also gives you the benefit of full coverage.

       

      Basic Metal Building Ventilation Tips

      Here’s a quick checklist for improving air movement in your non-conditioned metal structure:

      • In vented buildings that are not being heated/cooled at all, choose perforated radiant barrier foil.
      • Ensure intake vents are low (e.g. eaves or soffits) and exhaust vents are high (e.g. ridge or roof vents).
      • Keep foil or insulation clear of vent openings by 3–6 inches.
      • Make sure vent paths are unobstructed and clean. Don’t block venting with foil, or other insulation materials.
      • Seal any conditioned areas inside the building up, air tight.

      Ventilation & Moisture: Why It’s Not Just About Heat

      The key to managing moisture in a metal building is proper ventilation in the areas that are vented and proper air sealing in the conditioned areas (when applicable). To be proactive toward these potential problems, it’s important to keep your building both cool and dry.

      High humidity is the hidden enemy of metal buildings. Moisture inside can lead to condensation, rust, mold, and structural damage. The key to avoiding this is—again—proper ventilation. When warm air inside the building hits a cooler metal surface (like an uninsulated roof), condensation can form. This is especially common overnight or during seasonal temperature swings.

      Ventilation helps manage moisture by letting water vapor escape before it condenses. That’s why perforated radiant barriers like our BlueTex™ Foil Only materials are ideal for vented spaces—the tiny holes allow moisture vapor to pass through, keeping your structure dry and healthy.

      The idea behind ventilation is quite simple – don’t over complicate it. You need intake vents and exhaust vents; intake should occur at the bottom of the roof and exhaust vents should occur at the top since this is in line with natural airflow (warm air will naturally rise). This natural flow allows for moisture to freely move about and eventually diffuse. Incidentally, this is why radiant barrier is perforated and why you should always use a perforated product in a vented space. The perforations in the foil are tiny pinholes that allow water vapor molecules to pass through. This is exactly what you want: moisture moving freely to contribute to an overall dry building space.

      Do I Need More Ventilation?

      How much ventilation do you actually need? You certainly want adequate ventilation, but more is not always better. It’s not about flooding the building with vents—it’s about balance. Ideally, you want a 1:1 ratio of intake to exhaust; from our experience, most buildings have plenty of roof vents and not enough low intake vents. Without enough intake, your exhaust vents can become intake vents, disrupting natural airflow. This prevents hot air from escaping properly and can trap moisture where you don’t want it.

      Having good ventilation helps to reduce the air temperature, while having a radiant barrier helps reduce the surface temperatures. This is why radiant barrier combined with proper ventilation works to make your building more comfortable and energy efficient.  

      If you have several points of exit for the air, but not enough intake vents, then some of those outtake vents can actually turn into intake vents, completely disrupting the natural cycle of airflow. Air always travels the path of least resistance so by mixing exhaust vents, you can actually have the strongest vents dominate as the outtake and all other vents will become a point of air intake. Best Practice: Let air in at the bottom, and out at the top. Air naturally wants to rise as it warms, so working with this flow (instead of against it) makes your building perform better.

      What Should You Expect from Proper Ventilation?

      If your non-conditioned building is vented properly and lined with a radiant barrier, it’s reasonable to expect the interior temperature to be within 10–15°F of the outdoor temperature on a hot day. That’s a huge improvement compared to a metal box that can bake at 120°F+ without insulation or airflow.

      A well-ventilated, radiant barrier–lined metal building not only feels better—it performs better. You’ll reduce heat stress on stored items, avoid moisture damage, and create a space that’s easier to work in or enjoy.

      At BlueTex™, we’re all about helping you get the most out of your metal building. Pairing radiant barrier insulation with proper metal building ventilation gives you the best shot at a cooler, drier, more efficient structure—without breaking the bank or your back.

      Check out our full range of metal building insulation products, or contact us for personalized advice on how to make your building more comfortable year-round.