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      Articles — condensation

      Condensation & Vapor Diffusion in Metal Building Cavities

      Condensation in metal buildings

      When we talk about moisture in non-conditioned metal buildings, most people picture visible condensation on cold metal walls or on the bottom of the roofing dripping down inside the building. What’s less obvious — but far more important — is what’s happening microscopically inside the wall cavities of a building, especially if the walls and ceiling are closed up. 

      Do you know how moisture moves, where it accumulates, and why controlling that movement is essential for long-term building durability? If you have a semi-conditioned building (one that may occasionally use heating or cooling) or one that stores moisture-rich items like plants, dirt, feed, etc. and you have a vapor barrier on the interior, read on to learn more about controlling condensation and troubleshooting moisture problems.

      Condensation forming on metal roof behind insulation in a non-conditioned metal building

      Understanding moisture dynamics — condensation, capillary action, and vapor diffusion — helps you design walls that can successfully keep moisture out.

      The Three Main Mechanisms That Bring Moisture Inside Your Building

      Inside a wall (or roof) cavity of your building, moisture travels in three primary ways:

      1. Condensation – When Vapor Turns to Liquid

        Condensation occurs when warm, moisture-laden air encounters a surface that is cool enough for water vapor to change phase into liquid. In metal buildings, this often happens when warm interior air contacts the cold steel skin — especially at night after a sunny day. This is exactly what causes “sweating” on walls or ceilings. As building-science experts note, the real problem isn’t just water forming on a surface — it’s when that moisture stays wet long enough to initiate corrosion, mold, or decay.

      2. Capillary Action – Liquid Wicking Through Materials

        Capillary action is the tendency of liquid water to be drawn into a material’s tiny pores, like a sponge. A good everyday example is a paper towel. When you dip one corner into a spill, the water doesn’t just stay at the bottom — it climbs upward through the towel. That happens because the paper has thousands of microscopic pores that pull water along.

        Building materials behave the same way. Concrete, wood, insulation fibers, and even dirt all have tiny pathways that can draw liquid water in and spread it out. Once water enters one of these materials, it doesn’t need pressure or airflow to move — it simply wicks along on its own.

        Without careful detailing — like drainage spaces — moisture can be wicked into insulation or building materials and remain there, leading to long-term problems. Items like dirt or wood piles, feed storage, or even a bunch of adults gathering can all put moisture into the air. 

        The key to controlling capillary action is interrupting the path water uses to travel. This is done by adding capillary breaks (materials that water cannot wick through), keeping absorbent materials from directly touching wet surfaces, and using vapor barriers and insulation layers that don’t absorb liquid water.

      3. Vapor Diffusion – Vapor Driven by Pressure

        Even when there’s no liquid present, moisture still moves as vapor. Vapor diffusion is the migration of water molecules from areas of high vapor pressure to areas of low vapor pressure — such as from warm, humid interiors toward cooler exterior surfaces or vice versa.

        Not all materials allow vapor to pass through equally. Some act as vapor barriers, others as vapor retarders, and some are vapor open — letting moisture pass freely. Understanding the permeability of each layer in a wall assembly is key to predicting how and where moisture will move and preventing it from getting where it doesn't belong.

      Drying vs. Wetting: The Balancing Act

      The goal of any moisture-control strategy is to try our best to make the conditions unfavorable for moisture to form and to create an impermeable layer between the interior of the building and its metal skin (where condensation is most likely to form).

      In a non-conditioned space, you can tackle condensation and vapor by either sealing the building up so it's airtight inside or by fully venting air through the building (bringing in outside air and flushing it through the building and out the exhaust). More info about venting a space for moisture control can be found on our website here: Using BlueTex in a Carport to Prevent Condensation

      For the purpose of this article, we're discussing buildings that are sealed up inside using a vapor barrier. One note on this: a common mistake in wall design is to install vapor barriers on both sides of a cavity. This effectively “sandwiches” moisture in place and eliminates drying potential — a recipe for trapped moisture and eventual damage. In non-conditioned or semi-conditioned buildings, you only need 1 vapor barrier layer and adding more than that could lead to problems trapping moisture between the two. If you have a fully-conditioned metal building, there are specific instances where two vapor barriers can be (carefully) utilized for maximum moisture control. 

      BlueTex vapor barrier insulation installed on walls and ceiling of a metal building

      Design Principles to Keep Moisture Under Control in Non-Conditioned Buildings

      Here are key principles for managing moisture in wall cavities:

      Control Air Leakage

      Moisture moves much more readily with air than by diffusion alone. Sealing gaps, penetrations, and transitions helps minimize the transport of moist air into cooler wall cavities, where it could condense. This is why overlapping your insulation and vapor barriers, along with using a vapor barrier seam tape, are critical when installing metal building insulation for moisture control. 

      Strategically Place Vapor Barriers and Retarders

      At minimum, a vapor barrier should be placed on the warm side of your insulation (so closest to the interior of the building) in colder climates to limit inward vapor drive. In mixed climates, you typically find the vapor barrier closest to the exterior. When using a single layer of BlueTex™ alone in your building, this is easy to install since there's no other insulation being used. 

      Provide Drying Paths

      Allowing moisture to escape — toward the interior or exterior — ensures that moisture doesn’t accumulate. Back-venting your insulation (the area between the metal skin and your insulation) is another path to keep things dry. You can passively or actively push air between the metal skin and the foil surface of your BlueTex™ to help it stay dry back there. Or you can seal up the bottom of the walls and close any ceiling venting and make a dead air space behind the insulation. The advantage to this, if you do it properly, is that dead air can also give you some R-value!

      For more in-depth moisture control recommendations, see our guide on causes of moisture in metal buildings causes and the companion page on moisture prevention techniques in metal buildings.

      BlueTex Vapor Barriers: Part of Your Moisture Control Strategy

      Both BlueTex 2mm PRO and BlueTex 6mm Supreme act as vapor barriers that help manage moisture movement in wall cavities — but they’re suited to different applications:

      BlueTex 2mm PRO — A reliable vapor barrier and radiant barrier solution that reduces moisture migration and heat transfer in many non-conditioned metal building applications. This is a great option in warm climates or climates that are particularly dry.

      BlueTex 6mm Supreme — A thicker vapor barrier and radiant barrier that delivers superior moisture control, especially in wet, cold climates where buildings are regularly heated but not 24/7. The 6mm Supreme’s enhanced thickness and barrier properties provide improved resistance to vapor diffusion and moisture accumulation in climates prone to condensation cycles. The radiant barrier layer also helps keep heat inside the building in cold seasons, so it stays away from the metal exterior. 

      Finished metal building interior with vapor barrier insulation for moisture control

      Placing these products correctly within your wall assembly helps shift the first condensation surface away from the cold metal to a warmer, controlled surface (the interior BlueTex™). This limits the potential for liquid forming inside the cavity and supports drying when conditions change. We have some more tips on controlling moisture inside a building on this blog post: Moisture Control Tips for Metal Buildings

      Understanding what’s happening inside a wall cavity — how moisture condenses, how water moves through capillary action, and how vapor diffuses through materials — is fundamental to designing moisture-resilient metal buildings.

      By thinking of walls as moisture systems, not just insulation sandwiches, and by using products like BlueTex 2mm PRO and BlueTex 6mm Supreme in assemblies with good air sealing and/or back ventilation, you can dramatically reduce moisture risks and keep interiors dry and effective at controlling temperature inside your building year-round.

      How BlueTex™ Insulation Helps Keep Heat Inside Your Building During the Winter

      How BlueTex™ Insulation Helps Keep Heat Inside Your Building During the Winter

      When cold weather rolls in, everyone wants the same thing—to keep the heat inside the building, not leaking out into the chilly air. If you’re heating a metal building, shed, workshop, or garage, you may wonder: Can BlueTex insulation actually help during the winter?

      Read more

      Proper Metal Building Ventilation: The Basics to Keeping Non-Conditioned Spaces Cool and Dry

      Metal Building Ventilation

       

      When it comes to non-conditioned buildings—think garages, barns, carports, workshops, and storage units—two of the most important performance goals are to keep the air temperatures low and the interior dry. Whether you’re storing tools or simply working inside, no one wants to step into a sweltering, damp space. That’s where a proper metal building ventilation strategy makes all the difference.

      Air Temps vs Surface Temps

      There are a various things that can affect the air temperature inside of a non-conditioned building, but typically there are two main factors: the amount of heat entering the structure (heat gain) and the amount of airflow passing through (ventilation). While these two things are independent of one another, when they are controlled and working together, they make the biggest impact on making the building cooler and more comfortable. 

      Before diving into how to ventilate, let’s talk about the science behind heat in a building. There are two types of heat you deal with in a metal structure:

      Air Temperature – The temperature of the air you feel when you walk into the building.

      Surface Temperature – How hot the actual surfaces inside the building feel (walls, ceiling, storage boxes, etc.).

      These are related, but they’re not the same. You can reduce surface temperatures by installing a radiant barrier, like BlueTex™ foil insulation, which reflects radiant heat away from the interior. Meanwhile, ventilation helps reduce air temperature by allowing heat to escape.

      When surface and air temperatures are managed together, you create a dramatically more comfortable and functional space.

      Gaps for Airflow

      Ideally you want to give the air in your structure a free, clear path to flow around the foil installation. Air movement is important for regulating air temperatures and also for keeping the building dry (i.e. preventing any condensation from forming). Just like opening windows on a breezy day cools a house, letting air move inside your building helps reduce heat and moisture.

      If you install radiant barrier foil insulation in your metal building, it’s crucial to leave small gaps for air to flow around the foil. This doesn’t reduce the effectiveness of the insulation—it actually enhances it. Think of it like wearing breathable fabric on a hot day: you stay cooler because air can circulate.

      By leaving some gaps in the installation, air can easily move around the foil – in other words, proper ventilation can take place. The hot air in the building will travel the path of least resistance to make its way out of your building. When you install BlueTex™ with the proper air gaps, it allows for maximum ventilation between the roof and the foil and it also gives you the benefit of full coverage.

       

      Basic Metal Building Ventilation Tips

      Here’s a quick checklist for improving air movement in your non-conditioned metal structure:

      • In vented buildings that are not being heated/cooled at all, choose perforated radiant barrier foil.
      • Ensure intake vents are low (e.g. eaves or soffits) and exhaust vents are high (e.g. ridge or roof vents).
      • Keep foil or insulation clear of vent openings by 3–6 inches.
      • Make sure vent paths are unobstructed and clean. Don’t block venting with foil, or other insulation materials.
      • Seal any conditioned areas inside the building up, air tight.

      Ventilation & Moisture: Why It’s Not Just About Heat

      The key to managing moisture in a metal building is proper ventilation in the areas that are vented and proper air sealing in the conditioned areas (when applicable). To be proactive toward these potential problems, it’s important to keep your building both cool and dry.

      High humidity is the hidden enemy of metal buildings. Moisture inside can lead to condensation, rust, mold, and structural damage. The key to avoiding this is—again—proper ventilation. When warm air inside the building hits a cooler metal surface (like an uninsulated roof), condensation can form. This is especially common overnight or during seasonal temperature swings.

      Ventilation helps manage moisture by letting water vapor escape before it condenses. That’s why perforated radiant barriers like our BlueTex™ Foil Only materials are ideal for vented spaces—the tiny holes allow moisture vapor to pass through, keeping your structure dry and healthy.

      The idea behind ventilation is quite simple – don’t over complicate it. You need intake vents and exhaust vents; intake should occur at the bottom of the roof and exhaust vents should occur at the top since this is in line with natural airflow (warm air will naturally rise). This natural flow allows for moisture to freely move about and eventually diffuse. Incidentally, this is why radiant barrier is perforated and why you should always use a perforated product in a vented space. The perforations in the foil are tiny pinholes that allow water vapor molecules to pass through. This is exactly what you want: moisture moving freely to contribute to an overall dry building space.

      Do I Need More Ventilation?

      How much ventilation do you actually need? You certainly want adequate ventilation, but more is not always better. It’s not about flooding the building with vents—it’s about balance. Ideally, you want a 1:1 ratio of intake to exhaust; from our experience, most buildings have plenty of roof vents and not enough low intake vents. Without enough intake, your exhaust vents can become intake vents, disrupting natural airflow. This prevents hot air from escaping properly and can trap moisture where you don’t want it.

      Having good ventilation helps to reduce the air temperature, while having a radiant barrier helps reduce the surface temperatures. This is why radiant barrier combined with proper ventilation works to make your building more comfortable and energy efficient.  

      If you have several points of exit for the air, but not enough intake vents, then some of those outtake vents can actually turn into intake vents, completely disrupting the natural cycle of airflow. Air always travels the path of least resistance so by mixing exhaust vents, you can actually have the strongest vents dominate as the outtake and all other vents will become a point of air intake. Best Practice: Let air in at the bottom, and out at the top. Air naturally wants to rise as it warms, so working with this flow (instead of against it) makes your building perform better.

      What Should You Expect from Proper Ventilation?

      If your non-conditioned building is vented properly and lined with a radiant barrier, it’s reasonable to expect the interior temperature to be within 10–15°F of the outdoor temperature on a hot day. That’s a huge improvement compared to a metal box that can bake at 120°F+ without insulation or airflow.

      A well-ventilated, radiant barrier–lined metal building not only feels better—it performs better. You’ll reduce heat stress on stored items, avoid moisture damage, and create a space that’s easier to work in or enjoy.

      At BlueTex™, we’re all about helping you get the most out of your metal building. Pairing radiant barrier insulation with proper metal building ventilation gives you the best shot at a cooler, drier, more efficient structure—without breaking the bank or your back.

      Check out our full range of metal building insulation products, or contact us for personalized advice on how to make your building more comfortable year-round.

      Faced vs. Unfaced Insulation: Choosing the Right Option for Your Metal Building

      Faced vs. Unfaced Insulation

      When insulating a metal building, one of the most common questions we encounter is whether customers should use faced or unfaced insulation. The answer depends largely on your building’s intended use, climate control needs, and the type of radiant barrier insulation you’re installing. Let’s explore the key considerations to help you make the best choice for your metal building.

      R-Value and Climate Control Needs

      For buildings that are not climate-controlled year-round, traditional R-value insulation isn’t always necessary. In non-conditioned or semi-conditioned spaces, radiant barriers like BlueTex™ metal building insulation products are the most effective insulation solution for controlling heat gain and loss.

      Additionally, BlueTex™ creates an interior vapor barrier to help you control moisture inside the building, when installed properly. Radiant barriers work by reflecting up to 97% of radiant heat, keeping your building cooler in summer and warmer in winter without the need for thick layers of insulation. Since R-value is specifically designed to resist conductive heat flow, it’s best suited for fully conditioned spaces where heating or cooling is maintained year-round.

      If your building will be fully climate-controlled, R-value insulation becomes beneficial. In this case, you’ll want to ensure that:

      • The radiant barrier layer is installed closest to the exterior metal surface, with an air gap between the metal and the foil surface to maximize its effectiveness.
      • The R-value insulation is placed on the interior side, closest to the living or working space, to contain heated or cooled air efficiently.

      Layering Insulation in a Metal Building

      For optimal performance, the insulation process in a metal building should follow these steps:

      1. Install the radiant barrier: Use a product like BlueTex™ 2mm Pro or BlueTex™ Thermal Wrap, which both include a built-in vapor barrier. Ensure there’s an air gap between the foil layer and the exterior metal for maximum heat reflection.
      2. Add R-value insulation if needed: If your building will be fully conditioned, install batt or other R-value insulation between the framing. Spray foam insulation works great with the Thermal Wrap product. This dual-layering helps resist conductive heat transfer through the framing, while the radiant barrier tackles radiant heat coming off the sheet metal.

      Faced vs. Unfaced Insulation

      Once the radiant barrier is in place, the next step is deciding between faced or unfaced insulation. Here’s how to determine the best option for your building:

      • If you’re using BlueTex™ 2mm Pro or Thermal Wrap:
        These products already include a vapor barrier, so there’s no need to add faced insulation. Using unfaced insulation is sufficient because the vapor barrier function is handled by the BlueTex™ layer.

      • If you’re using BlueTex™ Foil Only (micro-perforated):
        The Foil Only product allows for vapor permeability, so you can choose either faced or unfaced insulation depending on your preference. If you opt for faced insulation, the facing should always point toward the interior of the building. This aligns with best practices recommended by professionals in the building science community, including Green Building Advisor, ensuring that moisture control is maintained effectively.

      Why Vapor Barriers Matter

      Moisture management is a critical aspect of insulating metal buildings. Without proper vapor control, condensation can build up inside the walls or roof, leading to mold, mildew, rust, or other structural issues.

      If you’re using BlueTex™ products with an integrated vapor barrier, you’re already a step ahead in preventing moisture problems. However, if your building has a history of high humidity or is located in a region prone to moisture buildup, you’ll want to ensure your insulation layers are installed correctly to avoid trapping moisture.

      Conclusion

      Choosing between faced and unfaced insulation depends on the type of radiant barrier you’re using and the climate control needs of your metal building. For non-conditioned spaces, BlueTex™ radiant barriers alone are often sufficient. In fully conditioned buildings, R-value insulation should complement the radiant barrier, with the radiant layer closest to the exterior metal surface.

      If your radiant barrier includes a vapor barrier, such as the BlueTex™ 2mm Pro or Thermal Wrap, unfaced insulation is typically the best choice. For micro-perforated products like BlueTex™ Foil Only, the decision between faced and unfaced comes down to preference and specific moisture control needs.

      For more information and step-by-step guides to insulating your metal building, visit BlueTexInsulation.com. Our team is here to help you create a comfortable, energy-efficient space that meets your unique requirements.

      Using BlueTex in a Carport to Prevent Condensation

      Carports: solving condensation issues

      Condensation can be a common issue in carports, especially those with metal roofs. The formation of moisture not only creates a damp environment but can also lead to rust and other damage to vehicles and stored items. One effective solution to combat your moisture problem inside your carport is using BlueTex™ metal building insulation.

       

      Why BlueTex ?

      BlueTex™ is a reflective insulation that not only helps in maintaining temperature but also acts as an air and vapor barrier against condensation. By reflecting radiant heat, it keeps the metal surfaces of your carport warmer on sunny days, reducing the chances of moisture forming when the temperature drops. This is particularly beneficial in carports where the roof and walls are often exposed to varying temperatures throughout the day.

      BlueTex also creates an internal air barrier, separating the air inside your carport from the metal skin. This separation reduces your chances of condensation, since the BlueTex can stay warmer than the metal framing and skin.

      In a cold climate where you're using heat, you want to consider the BlueTex™ 6mm Supreme product for maximum moisture control in your metal building. The Supreme is a foil-foam insulation that blocks radiant heat loss and helps the metal stay above the dew point. A layer of 6mm Supreme and a little heat can go a long way toward helping to stop a condensation problem in a carport.

       

      Closing Up Your Carport

      To maximize the benefits of BlueTex, it's important to ensure that your carport is as sealed as possible. Enclosing the sides of your carport can significantly reduce the exposure to external elements, such as rain or snow, which contribute to moisture buildup.

      By limiting airflow from the outside, you can better control the internal temperature and humidity levels, making the BlueTex™ insulation more effective. To learn more about how BlueTex™ helps stop moisture in metal buildings, read our Guide to Moisture Control for Metal Buildings.

       

      Ventilation as an Alternative

      If fully closing up your carport isn't an option, proper ventilation becomes key. A well-ventilated carport allows for adequate air circulation, which helps to disperse moisture-laden air and prevent condensation from settling on the metal surfaces.

      Installing vents at strategic points, such as near the roofline or at the end walls, can create a steady flow of air, minimizing the risk of dampness and the associated problems. This means your carport area will be very cold on cold days, but maintaining a temperature as close to outside air temperature as possible is how you will avoid moisture forming inside.

       

      Conclusion

      Whether you choose to fully enclose your carport or focus on improving ventilation, using BlueTex™ metal building insulation is a smart move to combat condensation. By understanding and controlling the environment inside your carport, you can protect your vehicles and belongings from the damaging effects of moisture. To learn more about moisture in metal buildings, start with our Guide to Moisture Management in Metal Buildings.