TermBar Install Guide

• Start by measuring the height from the floor to your first wall purlin.
• Cut a piece of BlueTex™ off your roll to the height measured, plus an extra 6".
• Hold your BlueTex™ up to the column edge and the bottom flange of the purlin. Have your helper press the aluminum TermBar against the BlueTex™, leaving a tab protruding above the TermBar of about 2".
• Secure the BlueTex™ to the purlin by screwing the TermBar into the metal purlin, leaving a 2" overlap of the BlueTex™ uncovered.
• Your BlueTex™ piece will hang down like a curtain - pull it down toward the ground and prepare to secure it tightly at the bottom.

• If you have screws coming through the L-brackets, use insulation washers and push directly onto the existing screws.
• A 1/2" deep socket works great - use a hammer to tap on, or a hammer drill in hammer-only mode.

• Use 3/4" self-drilling screws with insulation washers to secure the BlueTex™ to the bottom L-bracket.
• Screws can only go where the ribs are in your panel - do not put screws between ribs or you will penetrate the exterior metal.
• Rib spacing is typically 9-12" on center and is very consistent. Measure the center-to-center distance on the outside of the building before drilling.
• Cut into the old insulation to find a rib, or probe through with a screwdriver. Mark the L-bracket for screw placement before fastening.

• Cut off any existing screws poking through at the bottom of the wall so the surface is flush.
• Bring the TermBar all the way down to the concrete and treat the concrete like the top of a purlin - the BlueTex™ gets sandwiched between the TermBar and the concrete, exactly like it does between the TermBar and the metal purlin above.
• Fasten with concrete screws (Tapcon or equivalent) - a 3/16" masonry bit in a hammer drill makes quick work of pre-drilling.
• A Ramset (.22 caliber powder-actuated nail gun) is a faster alternative when you have a lot of linear footage to cover.
• Use 3 fasteners per 48" TermBar, evenly spaced - same pattern as a standard purlin install.
• Seal the bottom edge with 3" white vapor barrier seam tape, tucked between the TermBar and the BlueTex™ with a putty knife.

Repeat the process from Steps 1 and 2 for each wall section between purlins.

Always start at the top of each cavity so the BlueTex™ hangs down like a curtain.

Overlap the next piece of BlueTex™ by 2" onto the piece below. This gives the seam tape a solid surface to bond to and seals out any air path to the cold metal. Sandwich the overlap against the bottom flange of the upper purlin with a TermBar, then drive your 3 screws to lock it in. Butt each TermBar end-to-end against the next so they form one continuous aluminum line across the full purlin. No gaps between bars, no exposed BlueTex™ between TermBars.

Pull the BlueTex™ down and use the TermBar to sandwich it between the termbar and the purlin. Use the small lip protruding under the TermBar to keep the material tight, smooth, and flat.

• Continue across the full width of the wall until all rows are covered and secured top and bottom with TermBars or wood strips.
• Seal every vertical seam with the 3" wide white vapor barrier seam tape. Press firmly across the full length of the tape. The tape is PRESSURE Activated, so the harder you press, the better the bond. It will take a couple of months to fully chemically bond to the BlueTex™ and form a permanent seal.
• Run the tape a few inches past the top and bottom of each seam so you have extra to work with. "Tuck" those extra inches between the TermBar and the BlueTex™ using a putty knife so the seam is sealed all the way into the TermBar.
• Tape every vertical seam between rolls. If you see any spots along the outside edges of a cavity where the BlueTex™ doesn't sit tight against the purlin or where a small gap is showing, run a strip of seam tape over that gap too. The goal is zero open paths from the warm inside air to the cold metal behind the insulation.